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导读
制作panettone就是开始一段漫长、昂贵且不可预知的旅程，每一次都面临着灾难性的风险。40岁的Roy Shvartzapel，是旧金山的一名面包师，他的网站From Roy，经营的是邮购panettone业务。他把panettone 称之为“烘焙界的珠穆朗玛”，并且说 “你很难找到一个更有挑战性的面团了！
Panettone的面团非常敏感，要求苛刻，有时还会让人恼火，因为它有自己独特的逻辑和日程安排。它是分阶段发起来的，你不能催它，它也不会等你。它需要对原料的投资，对发酵的深刻理解，对pH值的留意，以及持续的关注。即便如此，Panettone面团还是有可能出问题。无论是来自加州洛斯加托斯，还是比兹堡的面包师们都说，这就是为什么他们如此痴迷于这种难伺候的面团:没有哪一种面包比它更难，也更值得去做。
一个伟大的panettone可以几乎不用费力地撕成许多长长的、透明的缕，入口即化。它是甜的，但不是那么强烈:比蛋糕更轻盈，有最柔软的，最圆润的，最精致的酸面团的特有风味。存储得当的话，一个月保持不变！
1996年，Jim Lahey开始在纽约的苏利文街面包店销售panettone。今年的这批货里满是朗姆葡萄干和蜜饯，或者黑巧克力和酸樱桃干。Lahey说“Panettone是面包世界的一种高级艺术，因为在制作面包的过程中有大量的技术。” 在他和玛雅约瑟夫一起写的书“沙利文街面包食谱”中包含了一个食谱，由于是写给家庭烘焙者的，所以食谱中包含的糖比面包房卖的版本要少，这就意味着它不需要一个复杂的panettone专用酵母。Lahey说:“如果操作无误，所有的烘焙后条件都是正确的，那么，我曾经做过一个panettone，在没有模塑和腐败的情况下保存了8个月。”
41岁的Rick Easton曾在匹兹堡经营一家面包店名为Bread and Salt，他称panettone是“一个疯狂的魔术”。他将于今年12月在曼哈顿的Superiority Burger出售他的panettone。为此，Easton从诺曼底购买黄油，或者准备他自己的黄油，寻觅有机的酿酒葡萄来制作他自己的葡萄干。他近几年一直在小心呵护他的lievito madre，一种用来做面包的意大利风格的酵母。Easton的大多数panettone都将会用柑橘皮和自制的葡萄干来装饰，但有一些将会更有实验性，在显眼处点缀糖渍南瓜，或者是糖渍榅桲和杏仁。他说:“这是一种滋味非常丰富、颓废、放纵的东西，但它又是意想不到的轻盈。这就是panettone最伟大的地方，作为面包师，你要做的就是那种质地。”
Panettone是米兰的特产，是一种为节日而制作的奢侈的面包，对技术和食材的关注都到了令人痴迷的程度。虽然它可以追溯到中世纪，但直到20世纪，panettone才普及到意大利的其他地方，之后是在国际上。Easton说:“面包制作的工业化使panettone得以普及，当然，工业化也从根本上改变了panettone。同样的盒装、批量的生产使panettone闻名于世，并把它从一种稀有的奢侈品变成了任何人都能买到的东西，不过它的声誉就是一种干透了的、巨香的海绵。
Shvartzapel 对panettone也是这种印象，直到大约10年前，他在巴黎品尝到了意大利传统手工制作的panettone。他回忆说:“它有这种融化的、棉花糖般的质感。”这是一种我在烘焙食物中从未体验过的口感。Shvartzapel后来师从米兰之外的意大利面包师Iginio Massari，学会了如何获得这种丝绵般的质感。他开始小批量的制作panettone，有时会用别人的厨房，在他位于加州希尔兹堡的公寓里包装，然后把它们装在他的车里，在当地卖。当时，Shvartzapel仍在测试他的理论，也就是美国人愿意花50美元买他的panettone。
“在美国之外，panettone是一个价值数十亿美元的市场，”他说。“在美国为什么不可以?” 随着奢华panettone市场的发展，Shvartzapel已经与La Boulangerie的创始人开始了合作，这是一家位于旧金山，自带咖啡馆的商业烘焙品牌。在过去的一个月里，他把自己的产品搬到了La Boulangerie位于南旧金山的的4万平方英尺的厨房里，在那里他可以为自己的邮购生意生产比过去多达10倍的panettone，而且很快就会在湾区的威廉姆斯索诺玛商店买到他的panettone。
33岁的Shvartzapel在洛斯加斯和洛斯阿尔托斯拥有曼雷萨面包，有许多美国面包师在尝试过Shvartzapel的传统panettone之后，就迷上了，她也是其中的一个。她说，“我从没去过意大利，但是实践出真知。” 今年，Ruzicka第一次制作panettone，她研究食谱，并参考面包师们在Instagram上分享的照片，这些照片是关于油腻的、沸腾的面团的。她偶尔也给Shvartzapel先生发信息来帮助解决问题。
Ruzicka 说，“如果你搞砸了一个panettone，就没了，你救不了它，直接扔进垃圾桶。而且Ruzicka发现，正如所有的面包师所做的那样，有近乎无穷尽的方法来搞砸一个panettone。酵母，乳化剂，发酵过程，时间，温度；即使是混合这件事儿，听起来很简单，但也有陷阱。为了避免过度的摩擦并且保持低温，Shvartzapel先生使用了一种从意大利进口的混合机，它可以效仿手工混合的轻柔。
Ruzicka夫人曾经用过温度只高出几度的黄油，结果面团就变成了糊状。有一次她早了几分钟把panettone从烤箱里拿了出来，结果，直接就从模具中滑出来，收缩了。还有一次，只是发酵过头一点点，整个批次都崩溃了，就是因为酵母变得太酸了。她说:“面包制作总是神秘而令人兴奋的，panettone更是如此。”
有了一些实践， Ruzicka夫人基本都能搞定了:几乎调整到了临界点，乳化了大量的脂肪，湿的，闪闪发光的，有弹性的面团，变成了辉煌的金色穹顶；就像在她之前的许多面包师一样，她创造了一个宏伟的结构，这个会在面包冷却后显露出来，把panettone倒置，来保存它脆弱的、混乱的气泡矩阵。Ruzicka夫人将会在她的面包店网站上发布几百个点缀着黑巧克力和糖渍橘皮的panettone，但只是在12月。她说，“panettone融化在你的嘴里，就突然消失了，你就一直想要再吃！”
第一步：解决高频单词
obsession [əb'seʃ(ə)n]
n.痴迷
at every turn
事事；到处
embark on/upon sth
着手
hard-pressed ['hɑ:dprest]
adj.处于困境的
track sth/sb down
寻觅
be shot through with sth
尽显无疑
indulgent [ɪn'dʌldʒ(ə)nt]
adj 纵容的
intrigue [ɪn'triːg]
vt.吸引
pitfall ['pɪtfɔːl]
n.陷阱
smidgen ['smɪdʒɪn]
n.一点点
第二步：精读重点段落
（Tips: 双击文中单词可以查释义并加入你的生词本哦）
[8] He includes a recipe for it in his book, “The Sullivan Street Bakery Cookbook,” written with Maya Joseph. Adapted for the home baker, the recipe includes less sugar than the version sold at the bakery, which means it doesn’t require a complex panettone-specific starter. “If made correctly, if all the conditions are correct post-baking, I once had a panettone last eight months without molding or spoilage,” Mr. Lahey said.
[28] With some practice, Ms. Ruzicka got it just right: Proofed almost to its breaking point, emulsified with an exorbitant amount of fat, the wet, shiny, comically stretchy dough vaulted up into glorious golden domes, as it had done for so many bakers before her, creating a magnificent structure that would reveal itself after the bread was cooled, upside down, to preserve its fragile, chaotic matrix of bubbles.
第三步：攻克必学语法
until prep, conj ( also till )
up to (the time that)
I was up until three o'clock trying to get it finished!
Hadn't we better wait until Antony's here?
not until
not before a particular time or event
We didn't eat till past midnight.
Once he starts a decorating job he won't stop until it's finished.
till prep , conj
up to (the time that); until
We waited till half past six for you.
Up till 1918, women in Britain were not allowed to vote.
[13] It wasn’t until the 20th century that panettone became so widely consumed across the rest of Italy, then internationally.
[16] Mr. Shvartzapel thought of panettone that way until about a decade ago.
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（Tips: 双击文中单词可以查释义并加入你的生词本哦）
Panettone Has Become an Obsession for American Bakers
[1] To make panettone — traditional panettone, coaxed from a stiff, naturally leavened starter — is to embark on a long, expensive and unpredictable journey, risking disaster at every turn.
- coax vt.哄骗
- stiff adj.僵硬的
- leaven vt.使发酵
- embark on 着手
- at every turn 到处
[2] Roy Shvartzapel, a baker in San Francisco, refers to the Italian bread as “the Mount Everest of baking.”
[3] “You’d be hard pressed to find a more challenging dough,” said Mr. Shvartzapel, 40, who owns the mail-order panettone business From Roy.
- hard-pressed adj.焦头烂额的
[4] Panettone dough is wildly sensitive, demanding and occasionally infuriating, following its own unique logic and schedule. Built up in stages, it can’t be rushed or made to wait. It requires an investment of ingredients, a deep understanding of fermentation and attention to pH levels, along with constant attention.
- infuriating adj.令人大怒的
[5] Give it all that, and a panettone can still go wrong. Bakers from Los Gatos, Calif., to Pittsburgh say that’s exactly why they’re so obsessed with the high-maintenance dough: No bread is more difficult, or more rewarding, to get right.
- obsessed adj.着迷的
- high-maintenance 难伺候
[6] A great panettone can be pulled apart with almost no effort into so many long, diaphanous strands that dissolve on the tongue. It is sweet, but not intensely so: more weightless than cake, with the softest, roundest, most delicate tang of sourdough. Stored properly, it will keep that way for a month.
- diaphanous adj.半透明的
- strand n.股；缕
- tang n.特性
[7] Jim Lahey started selling panettone at Sullivan Street Bakery, in New York, in 1996. This year’s batch is full of rum-plumped raisins and candied citron, or dark chocolate and dried sour cherries. “Panettone is this high art for the world of bread,” said Mr. Lahey, “because there’s an enormous amount of technique in making it.”
- batch n.一批
[8] He includes a recipe for it in his book, “The Sullivan Street Bakery Cookbook,” written with Maya Joseph. Adapted for the home baker, the recipe includes less sugar than the version sold at the bakery, which means it doesn’t require a complex panettone-specific starter. “If made correctly, if all the conditions are correct post-baking, I once had a panettone last eight months without molding or spoilage,” Mr. Lahey said.
- molding n.模塑
- spoilage n.损坏
[9] Rick Easton, 41, who used to run Bread and Salt, a bakery in Pittsburgh, calls panettone “a crazy magic trick.” He will sell his version this December at Superiority Burger, in Manhattan.
[10] To make it, Mr. Easton buys butter from Normandy, or prepares his own cultured butter, and tracks down organic wine grapes to make his own raisins. He has cared for his lievito madre, the Italian-style starter he uses to make the bread, for several years.
- tracks down 寻觅
[11] Most of Mr. Easton’s panettone will be jeweled with citrus peel and homemade raisins, but a few will be more experimental, shot through with pieces of candied pumpkin, or candied quince and almonds.
- jewel vt.镶以宝石
- be shot through with sth 尽显无疑
[12] “Here is this thing that’s incredibly rich, decadent, indulgent, but it’s impossibly light,” he said. “That’s the greatest thing about a panettone, the thing you’re reaching for as a baker: that texture.”
- decadent adj.颓废的
- indulgent adj.放纵的
[13] Panettone has its roots as a regional specialty in Milan, a luxury bread made for the holidays with an obsessive level of attention to technique and ingredients. Though it may date back, in an earlier incarnation, to the Middle Ages, it wasn’t until the 20th century that panettone became so widely consumed across the rest of Italy, then internationally.
- obsessive adj.痴迷的
- incarnation n.化身
[14] “The industrialization of bread-making made panettone available to a much broader spectrum of the population,” Mr. Easton said. It fundamentally changed the bread, too.
- spectrum n.范围
[15] The same boxed, mass-produced versions that made panettone famous, and that took it from being a rare luxury item to one anyone could buy, gave it a reputation as nothing more than a parched, heavily perfumed sponge.
- parched adj.干透的
[16] Mr. Shvartzapel thought of panettone that way until about a decade ago, when he tasted one made in the artisanal Italian tradition, in Paris. “It had this melting, cotton-candy type quality,” he recalled. “It was a texture I’d never experienced in a baked good before.”
[17] Mr. Shvartzapel later learned how to achieve that flossy quality from the Italian baker Iginio Massari, outside Milan.
[18] Mr. Shvartzapel began by making small batches of panettone, sometimes using other people’s kitchens, wrapping up the loaves at his apartment in Healdsburg, Calif., and loading them into the trunk of his car to sell locally. Back then, Mr. Shvartzapel was still testing his theory that Americans would pay $50 for his panettone. (They would.)
[19] “Outside of the United States, panettone is a multibillion-dollar market,” he said. “Why not here?”
[20] As the market for luxury panettone grows, Mr. Shvartzapel has partnered with the founders of La Boulangerie, a commercial bakery brand with cafes in San Francisco. This past month, he moved his production into La Boulangerie’s 40,000 square-foot commissary kitchen in South San Francisco, where he says he can produce up to 10 times more bread for his mail-order business. And his panettone will soon be available at Williams Sonoma stores in the Bay Area.
[21] Avery Ruzicka, 33, who owns Manresa Bread in Los Gatos and Los Altos, is one of many American bakers who became intrigued by traditional panettone after trying Mr. Shvartzapel’s.
- intrigued adj.被迷住了的
[22] “I’ve never been to Italy,” she said, “but I learned on my feet.”
[23] This year, baking it for the first time, Ms. Ruzicka studied recipes and referenced the photos that bakers shared on Instagram of their unctuous, seething doughs. She sent Mr. Shvartzapel, a friend, the occasional message to help troubleshoot.
- unctuous adj.油质的
- seething adj.火热的，沸腾的
- troubleshoot v.解决问题
[24] “If you mess up a panettone, it’s gone,” she said. “You can’t save it. It just all goes in the garbage.” And Ms. Ruzicka found, as all bakers do, that there is a near-infinite number of ways to mess it up.
- near-infinite 近乎无穷的
[25] The starter, the emulsion, the fermentation, the timing, the temperature. Even the mixing, which sounded straightforward enough, had its pitfalls. (To avoid excess friction, and keep the temperature low, Mr. Shvartzapel uses a diving-arm mixer imported from Italy, which can mimic the gentleness of hand-mixing.)
- emulsion n.乳剂
- pitfall n.陷阱
- friction n.摩擦
- mimic vt.效仿
[26] Ms. Ruzicka once used butter that was a couple of degrees too warm, and the dough turned to mush. She pulled a panettone out of the oven a few minutes early, and it slipped right out of its mold, deflating. One time, just a smidgen over-fermented, a whole batch collapsed because the yeast had grown too acidic.
- mush n.糊状物
- deflate v.缩小
- smidgen n.一点点
- collapse v.倒塌
[27] “Bread-making is always mystical and exciting, but panettone more so than anything else,” she said.
- mystical adj.神秘的
[28] With some practice, Ms. Ruzicka got it just right: Proofed almost to its breaking point, emulsified with an exorbitant amount of fat, the wet, shiny, comically stretchy dough vaulted up into glorious golden domes, as it had done for so many bakers before her, creating a magnificent structure that would reveal itself after the bread was cooled, upside down, to preserve its fragile, chaotic matrix of bubbles.
- proof vt.校对
- emulsif v.乳化
- exorbitant adj.过高的
- comically adv.诙谐地
- vault v.供状弯曲
- dome n.圆屋顶
- matrix n.矩阵
[29] Ms. Ruzicka will ship a few hundred loaves of her panettone, flecked with dark chocolate and candied orange peel, via her bakery’s website, but only through December.
- fleck vt.使有斑驳
[30] “It melts in your mouth and it’s suddenly gone,” she said. “And then you want to eat more.”
obsession [əb'seʃ(ə)n]
n.痴迷
at every turn
事事；到处
embark on/upon sth
着手
hard-pressed ['hɑ:dprest]
adj.处于困境的
track sth/sb down
寻觅
be shot through with sth
尽显无疑
indulgent [ɪn'dʌldʒ(ə)nt]
adj 纵容的
intrigue [ɪn'triːg]
vt.吸引
pitfall ['pɪtfɔːl]
n.陷阱
smidgen ['smɪdʒɪn]
n.一点点
不要一时兴起，就要天天在一起
明天见！
下载音频
Panettone Has Become an Obsession for American Bakers
[1] To make panettone — traditional panettone, coaxed from a stiff, naturally leavened starter — is to embark on a long, expensive and unpredictable journey, risking disaster at every turn.
[2] Roy Shvartzapel, a baker in San Francisco, refers to the Italian bread as “the Mount Everest of baking.”
[3] “You’d be hard pressed to find a more challenging dough,” said Mr. Shvartzapel, 40, who owns the mail-order panettone business From Roy.
[4] Panettone dough is wildly sensitive, demanding and occasionally infuriating, following its own unique logic and schedule. Built up in stages, it can’t be rushed or made to wait. It requires an investment of ingredients, a deep understanding of fermentation and attention to pH levels, along with constant attention.
[5] Give it all that, and a panettone can still go wrong. Bakers from Los Gatos, Calif., to Pittsburgh say that’s exactly why they’re so obsessed with the high-maintenance dough: No bread is more difficult, or more rewarding, to get right.
[6] A great panettone can be pulled apart with almost no effort into so many long, diaphanous strands that dissolve on the tongue. It is sweet, but not intensely so: more weightless than cake, with the softest, roundest, most delicate tang of sourdough. Stored properly, it will keep that way for a month.
[7] Jim Lahey started selling panettone at Sullivan Street Bakery, in New York, in 1996. This year’s batch is full of rum-plumped raisins and candied citron, or dark chocolate and dried sour cherries. “Panettone is this high art for the world of bread,” said Mr. Lahey, “because there’s an enormous amount of technique in making it.”
[8] He includes a recipe for it in his book, “The Sullivan Street Bakery Cookbook,” written with Maya Joseph. Adapted for the home baker, the recipe includes less sugar than the version sold at the bakery, which means it doesn’t require a complex panettone-specific starter. “If made correctly, if all the conditions are correct post-baking, I once had a panettone last eight months without molding or spoilage,” Mr. Lahey said.
[9] Rick Easton, 41, who used to run Bread and Salt, a bakery in Pittsburgh, calls panettone “a crazy magic trick.” He will sell his version this December at Superiority Burger, in Manhattan.
[10] To make it, Mr. Easton buys butter from Normandy, or prepares his own cultured butter, and tracks down organic wine grapes to make his own raisins. He has cared for his lievito madre, the Italian-style starter he uses to make the bread, for several years.
[11] Most of Mr. Easton’s panettone will be jeweled with citrus peel and homemade raisins, but a few will be more experimental, shot through with pieces of candied pumpkin, or candied quince and almonds.
[12] “Here is this thing that’s incredibly rich, decadent, indulgent, but it’s impossibly light,” he said. “That’s the greatest thing about a panettone, the thing you’re reaching for as a baker: that texture.”
[13] Panettone has its roots as a regional specialty in Milan, a luxury bread made for the holidays with an obsessive level of attention to technique and ingredients. Though it may date back, in an earlier incarnation, to the Middle Ages, it wasn’t until the 20th century that panettone became so widely consumed across the rest of Italy, then internationally.
[14] “The industrialization of bread-making made panettone available to a much broader spectrum of the population,” Mr. Easton said. It fundamentally changed the bread, too.
[15] The same boxed, mass-produced versions that made panettone famous, and that took it from being a rare luxury item to one anyone could buy, gave it a reputation as nothing more than a parched, heavily perfumed sponge.
[16] Mr. Shvartzapel thought of panettone that way until about a decade ago, when he tasted one made in the artisanal Italian tradition, in Paris. “It had this melting, cotton-candy type quality,” he recalled. “It was a texture I’d never experienced in a baked good before.”
[17] Mr. Shvartzapel later learned how to achieve that flossy quality from the Italian baker Iginio Massari, outside Milan.
[18] Mr. Shvartzapel began by making small batches of panettone, sometimes using other people’s kitchens, wrapping up the loaves at his apartment in Healdsburg, Calif., and loading them into the trunk of his car to sell locally. Back then, Mr. Shvartzapel was still testing his theory that Americans would pay $50 for his panettone. (They would.)
[19] “Outside of the United States, panettone is a multibillion-dollar market,” he said. “Why not here?”
[20] As the market for luxury panettone grows, Mr. Shvartzapel has partnered with the founders of La Boulangerie, a commercial bakery brand with cafes in San Francisco. This past month, he moved his production into La Boulangerie’s 40,000 square-foot commissary kitchen in South San Francisco, where he says he can produce up to 10 times more bread for his mail-order business. And his panettone will soon be available at Williams Sonoma stores in the Bay Area.
[21] Avery Ruzicka, 33, who owns Manresa Bread in Los Gatos and Los Altos, is one of many American bakers who became intrigued by traditional panettone after trying Mr. Shvartzapel’s.
[22] “I’ve never been to Italy,” she said, “but I learned on my feet.”
[23] This year, baking it for the first time, Ms. Ruzicka studied recipes and referenced the photos that bakers shared on Instagram of their unctuous, seething doughs. She sent Mr. Shvartzapel, a friend, the occasional message to help troubleshoot.
[24] “If you mess up a panettone, it’s gone,” she said. “You can’t save it. It just all goes in the garbage.” And Ms. Ruzicka found, as all bakers do, that there is a near-infinite number of ways to mess it up.
[25] The starter, the emulsion, the fermentation, the timing, the temperature. Even the mixing, which sounded straightforward enough, had its pitfalls. (To avoid excess friction, and keep the temperature low, Mr. Shvartzapel uses a diving-arm mixer imported from Italy, which can mimic the gentleness of hand-mixing.)
[26] Ms. Ruzicka once used butter that was a couple of degrees too warm, and the dough turned to mush. She pulled a panettone out of the oven a few minutes early, and it slipped right out of its mold, deflating. One time, just a smidgen over-fermented, a whole batch collapsed because the yeast had grown too acidic.
[27] “Bread-making is always mystical and exciting, but panettone more so than anything else,” she said.
[28] With some practice, Ms. Ruzicka got it just right: Proofed almost to its breaking point, emulsified with an exorbitant amount of fat, the wet, shiny, comically stretchy dough vaulted up into glorious golden domes, as it had done for so many bakers before her, creating a magnificent structure that would reveal itself after the bread was cooled, upside down, to preserve its fragile, chaotic matrix of bubbles.
[29] Ms. Ruzicka will ship a few hundred loaves of her panettone, flecked with dark chocolate and candied orange peel, via her bakery’s website, but only through December.
[30] “It melts in your mouth and it’s suddenly gone,” she said. “And then you want to eat more.”
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