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- 纯净版
导读
来自爱达荷州双瀑城的Rick Hazen，他和sourdough的缘分开始于二十年前，他曾是an Albertsons Market bakery的经理。离职之后，他发现自己没有新鲜的面包吃了，于是他开始用面粉和一些没有经过加工的苹果汁来制作sourdough starter。随着果汁的发酵，野生酵母出现了，制作成功，此后他们一直用自制的sourdough来烘焙，他的妻子说，“其他的我们都不吃”。
来自肯塔基州鲍灵格林市的Jocelyn Knepler，她的sourdough starter是德州米德兰的一个朋友在1973年送给她的。据这个朋友说，这个sourdough是1948年出现的，属于一位来自科罗拉多州戈登市的女士，后来经由德州克米特市的一位女士转到了她的手上。此后，Ms. Knepler Knepler和她的starter一起从德克萨斯到阿拉斯加，到英国，到中国，最后到肯塔基州，她是在那里退休的。她的女儿用同样的starter喂养她的儿子们。她说，“这是一个家庭传统。”
一个sourdough starter闯入你生活的方式和一只乌龟是类似的。作为宠物，你可能不知道你想要它们，直到有人把它递给你，或者你发现自己在冲动购物后拿着饲养乌龟的玻璃容器，你无法解释是否你试图这样做。无论你是获得的，自制的，还是买来的，现在你拥有了一个sourdough starter，它是需要养的，也是需要用的。
我们的生活中有很多洞。他们被环境所填满，或者我们自己填满。
来自洛杉矶的喜剧演员Tom Papa，他从一个女儿那里获得了一个starter作为圣诞节的礼物，此后的一年多，他一直在养着并且使用它，他的感受就是，你做这件简单的事情，然后它改变了你的生活。
Sourdough starter就是面粉和水放在那里去发酵，这个媒介支持着野生酵母和围绕在我们身边的乳酸杆菌。用更多的面粉和水去养它，sourdough最终获得了一种能够帮助面团发起来的合作关系，不用使用培养的酵母。凡是用sourdough来制作的食物都会带有一种刺激性的、微酸的，但是特别诱人的味道，这也是一个令人愉快的副作用。严格来说，味道并不是sourdough的关键。
Michael Pollan是一个作家，Netflix上有一个他的最新系列纪录片，名为“Cooked”；在其中的一个片段中，Mr. Pollan说，“很多人认为sourdough是一种面包，但是，sourdough是也就100多年前，传统的面包制作方法。” 有的时候Mr. Pollan的话听起来很专横。他在一个片段中说，“sourdough是制作面包的正确方法。”
Sourdough当然是一种简单的制作面包的方法，至少一旦你有一个starter在那里发挥作用，尽管这个过程需要时间，因为在sourdough starter里的野生酵母没有它的商业同类物那么有活力。用sourdough starter制作面包，面团在starter发酵和改变的过程中缓慢上升，并且针对面粉类型、空气温度、湿度和海拔等各种因素的变化做出反应。
一个面包师可以用科学或信念对那些因素做出反应。Erika Szymanski是一个在新西兰奥塔哥大学就读的美国博士生，她有微生物学的硕士学位。她本人会定期使用sourdough来制作类似pancakes, skillet breads and rye loaves。但她对自己的关心并不教条，她说，“Sourdough是活着的，我们也是；整个协议就是关于找出一种对双方都有效的关系。如果这是非常规的，由谁来用恐惧取代爱，并声称你做错了?”
可以寻求高的起点，看看你能不能从别人那里搞一点儿。任何一个有Sourdough starter的人都会很高兴地分给你大概一杯左右的starter，因为为了保持starter的平衡和大小，需要在每次养它的时候用掉或丢弃部分。
也可以买一些！sourdough starters已经开始在农贸市场和Etsy这个手工艺品交易网站上出现了。 Cultures for Health网站上卖，King Arthur Flour也卖。出场的第七个人物Katie Walker是这家公司的发言人，她说，starter的销售将会上升，并且有望比去年提高20%。而“如何制作你自己的Sourdough，”她补充道，是她们最出色的博客文章。
尝试自己制作starter！把一杯水和一杯面粉放在一个有盖的碗里，让它在室温下，直到它开始冒泡和茁壮成长。你可以用葡萄来加速这个过程，就像面包师Nancy Silverton很多年前在一个Julia Child的电视节目中广告的那样。
Peter Reinhart，它是“The Bread Baker’s Apprentice”这本书的作者。几年前，他在自己的博客中写到，用几盎司不加糖的菠萝汁替代水放到面粉里，几天后，你的starter应该开始几天后，你的开始就应该开始活跃了，用更多的面粉和水来滋养。
一旦你有了一个活跃的starter，也就是说，它是轻盈的、起泡的，有一种令人愉悦的、酵母迷醉的香味，就会有两条路摆在你的面前：痴迷者和繁忙的面包师把他们的starter放在厨房台面上，每天用，每天养。一些人还给他们的starter起了名字。另外一条路上的人把sourdough starters存放在冰箱里，这样可以减缓他们的新陈代谢，让我们可以不那么频繁地使用它们，喂养它们。
不过，starter是一定要养的。King Arthur的面包师给出的配方是大概一杯的普通面粉和半杯温水。另一些人则增加了水的量，或者根据他们的口味，用黑麦或者全麦来改变面粉的种类。最后一个人物出场了，他叫Samuel Fromartz，是一位家庭面包师，他的“In Search of the Perfect Loaf寻找完美的面包”对于新手是一份无价的指南，他说，这些连续的喂养表明，那种认为任何一个特定的starter都可以追溯到几十年前，甚至是几个世纪的观点，都是无稽之谈。Fromartz说，最终，sourdough starter会适应你的厨房，喂养的方案和原料，将会随着时间的推移而偏爱某些酵母和细菌。
第一步：解决高频单词
bloom [bluːm]
vi.开花；茁壮成长
impulse n.冲动 ['ɪmpʌls]
n.冲动
alluring [ə'l(j)ʊərɪŋ]
adj.诱人的
counterpart n.相对应的人或物 ['kaʊntəpɑːt]
n.相对应的人或物
part with sth
舍弃
on track
走上正轨
nourish ['nʌrɪʃ]
vt.滋养
scant [skænt]
adj.不足的；勉强够的
notion ['nəʊʃ(ə)n]
n.见解
trace [treɪs]
vt.追溯
第二步：精读重点段落
（Tips: 双击文中单词可以查释义并加入你的生词本哦）
[8] Sourdough starter is simply flour and water left to ferment, a medium that supports the wild yeast and lactobacilli that surround us all. Fed with more flour, and more water, a sourdough eventually achieves a kind of symbiosis that helps dough rise, without the use of cultivated yeast. That it delivers a pungent, slightly sour and deeply alluring taste to all that you cook with it is a happy side effect. Taste is not, strictly speaking, the point of sourdough.
- alluring adj.诱人的
[21] Samuel Fromartz, a home baker whose “In Search of the Perfect Loaf” is an invaluable guide for beginning bakers, said these serial feedings make it clear that the notion that any particular starter can be traced back over decades, even centuries, is hokum. (King Arthur Flour says its starter is a strain that dates to the 1800s.)
- notion n.观点
- trace vt.追溯
第三步：攻克必学语法
动词这一辈子。。。
feed
[ T ] to give food to a person, group or animal
I usually feed the neighbour's cat while she's away.
Let's feed the kids first and have our dinner after.
[ + two objects ] Do you feed your chickens corn?
If you feed your dog on cakes and biscuits, it's not surprising he's so fat.
The kids love feeding bread to the ducks.
谓语动词
[14] Anyone who has one will be glad to part with a cup or so, because to maintain its balance and size, you need to use or discard part of the starter each time you feed it.
[7] Tom Papa, who has been feeding and using his starter in Los Angeles for more than a year now, after he received it from one of his daughters as a Christmas gift.
[20] Still, a starter must be fed.
非谓语动词
[4] Her daughter uses the same starter to feed her boys.
[5] It needs to be fed.
[19] The rest of us keep sourdough starters in the refrigerator, which slows their metabolism, allowing us to use them, and feed them, less frequently.
[18] Obsessives and frequent bakers keep their starters out on their countertops, using the stuff daily, feeding it daily.
[22] “Ultimately,” Mr. Fromartz said, a sourdough starter “adapts to your kitchen, feeding regimen and feedstock, which will favor certain yeast and bacteria over time.”
[8] Fed with more flour, and more water, a sourdough eventually achieves a kind of symbiosis that helps dough rise, without the use of cultivated yeast.
加分任务：精读全文
在之前的三步后，你已经完全具备了精读全文的能力。再多花半个小时，让你的学习效果达到120%！
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（Tips: 双击文中单词可以查释义并加入你的生词本哦）
Sourdough Starter, America’s Rising Pet
[1] Twenty years ago, after leaving his job as the manager of an Albertsons Market bakery in Twin Falls, Idaho, Rick Hazen found himself missing the taste of fresh bread. He made a sourdough starter using flour and some unprocessed apple juice.
- unprocessed adj.未被加工的
[2] The juice fermented. Wild yeast made an appearance. The starter bloomed. Mr. Hazen has been baking with it ever since. “We won’t eat anything else,” said his wife, Lorri.
- bloom vi.开花;茁壮成长
[3] Jocelyn Knepler of Bowling Green, Ky., was given her sourdough starter by a friend in Midland, Tex., in 1973. “She got it from a woman in Kermit, Tex., who got it from a woman in Golden, Colo., who started it in 1948,” she said.
[4] Ms. Knepler and her starter have since moved together from Texas to Alaska, to Britain, to China and to Kentucky, where she is retired. Her daughter uses the same starter to feed her boys. “It’s a family tradition,” she said.
[5] A sourdough starter comes into your life the way a turtle might: as a pet you maybe didn’t know you wanted until someone hands it to you or you find yourself holding the terrarium after an impulse purchase you couldn’t explain if you tried. You get it or you make it or you buy it, and now you have a sourdough starter. It needs to be fed. It asks to be used.
- turtle n.龟
- terrarium n.玻璃容器
- impulse n.冲动
[6] There are holes in our lives. They are filled for us by circumstance, or we fill them ourselves.
[7] “You do this simple thing,” said the comedian Tom Papa, who has been feeding and using his starter in Los Angeles for more than a year now, after he received it from one of his daughters as a Christmas gift. “And it changes your life.”
[8] Sourdough starter is simply flour and water left to ferment, a medium that supports the wild yeast and lactobacilli that surround us all. Fed with more flour, and more water, a sourdough eventually achieves a kind of symbiosis that helps dough rise, without the use of cultivated yeast. That it delivers a pungent, slightly sour and deeply alluring taste to all that you cook with it is a happy side effect. Taste is not, strictly speaking, the point of sourdough.
- lactobacilli n.乳酸杆菌
- symbiosis n.共生
- cultivated adj.培养的
- alluring adj.诱人的
[9] “A lot of us think that sourdough is a style of bread,” the writer Michael Pollan said in one episode of “Cooked,” his new documentary series on Netflix. “But what sourdough is, is the traditional way that bread was made until only about 100 years ago.”
- episode n.片段
[10] Mr. Pollan can sometimes sound bossy. “Sourdough is the proper way to make bread,” he said in one segment.
- segment n.段
[11] It is certainly a simple way to make bread, at least once you have a starter up and going, though the process takes time, because the wild yeast in a sourdough starter is less vigorous than its commercial counterparts. Make bread with a sourdough starter, and the dough rises slowly as the starter ferments and changes, and as it reacts to all manner of factors, like flour type, air temperature, humidity and altitude.
- vigorous adj.有力的
- counterpart n.相对应的人或物
[12] A baker can react to those factors with science or conviction. Erika Szymanski, an American doctoral student at the University of Otago, in New Zealand, has a master’s degree in microbiology and uses her sourdough regularly, for pancakes, skillet breads and rye loaves alike. But she is hardly doctrinaire about its care.
- conviction n.确信
- microbiology n.微生物学
- doctrinaire adj.教条主义的
[13] “Sourdough is alive, and so are we,” she said. “The whole deal, I think, has to be about figuring out a relationship that works for both parties. And if it’s unconventional, whose business is it to replace love with fear and claim that you’re doing it wrong?”
- unconventional adj.非传统的
[14] Start at the top, then. See if you can’t get some starter from someone. Anyone who has one will be glad to part with a cup or so, because to maintain its balance and size, you need to use or discard part of the starter each time you feed it.
- part with sth 舍弃
- discard v.丢弃
[15] Or buy some — sourdough starters have started to show up at farmers’ markets and on Etsy. The website Cultures for Health sells one. So does King Arthur Flour. Katie Walker, a spokeswoman for the company, said sales of starter are up for the company, and on track to be 20 percent higher than last year. “How to Make Your Own Sourdough Starter,” she added, is King Arthur’s top-performing blog post.
- on track 走上正轨
[16] So you might try making a starter yourself, combining a cup of water and a cup of flour in a covered bowl and allowing it to sit at room temperature until it begins to bubble and bloom. You can speed the process with grapes, as the baker Nancy Silverton advised years ago on a Julia Child television show.
[17] Peter Reinhart, the author of “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice,” uses a few ounces of unsweetened pineapple juice. Add the juice instead of water to the flour and let it sit, he wrote on his blog a few years ago; a few days later your starter should begin to come to life. Nourish its bubbles with more flour, and water.
- come to life 变得活跃
- nourish vt.滋养
[18] Once you have an active starter, which is to say one that is light and bubbly, with a pleasant yeasty-boozy aroma, a fork appears in the road. Obsessives and frequent bakers keep their starters out on their countertops, using the stuff daily, feeding it daily. Some people name their starters: William Butler Yeast, Herman, Sarah, Sky Pilot, Ms. Tippity, Eleanor, Roxanne.
- fork n.分叉
- obsessive adj.痴迷的
- countertop n.工作台面
[19] The rest of us keep sourdough starters in the refrigerator, which slows their metabolism, allowing us to use them, and feed them, less frequently. (We do not name our livestock.)
- metabolism n.新陈代谢
[20] Still, a starter must be fed. The bakers at King Arthur prescribe a diet of a scant cup of all-purpose flour and 1/2 cup of lukewarm water. Others increase the amount of water, or alter the kind of flour according to their tastes, using rye or whole wheat.
- scant adj.不足的；大约
- lukewarm adj.微温的
- rye n.黑麦
[21] Samuel Fromartz, a home baker whose “In Search of the Perfect Loaf” is an invaluable guide for beginning bakers, said these serial feedings make it clear that the notion that any particular starter can be traced back over decades, even centuries, is hokum. (King Arthur Flour says its starter is a strain that dates to the 1800s.)
- notion n.观点
- trace vt.追溯
- hokum n.胡扯
[22] “Ultimately,” Mr. Fromartz said, a sourdough starter “adapts to your kitchen, feeding regimen and feedstock, which will favor certain yeast and bacteria over time.”
- regimen n.方案
- feedstock n.原料
bloom [bluːm]
vi.开花；茁壮成长
impulse n.冲动 ['ɪmpʌls]
n.冲动
alluring [ə'l(j)ʊərɪŋ]
adj.诱人的
counterpart n.相对应的人或物 ['kaʊntəpɑːt]
n.相对应的人或物
part with sth
舍弃
on track
走上正轨
nourish ['nʌrɪʃ]
vt.滋养
scant [skænt]
adj.不足的；勉强够的
notion ['nəʊʃ(ə)n]
n.见解
trace [treɪs]
vt.追溯
不要一时兴起，就要天天在一起
明天见！
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Sourdough Starter, America’s Rising Pet
[1] Twenty years ago, after leaving his job as the manager of an Albertsons Market bakery in Twin Falls, Idaho, Rick Hazen found himself missing the taste of fresh bread. He made a sourdough starter using flour and some unprocessed apple juice.
[2] The juice fermented. Wild yeast made an appearance. The starter bloomed. Mr. Hazen has been baking with it ever since. “We won’t eat anything else,” said his wife, Lorri.
[3] Jocelyn Knepler of Bowling Green, Ky., was given her sourdough starter by a friend in Midland, Tex., in 1973. “She got it from a woman in Kermit, Tex., who got it from a woman in Golden, Colo., who started it in 1948,” she said.
[4] Ms. Knepler and her starter have since moved together from Texas to Alaska, to Britain, to China and to Kentucky, where she is retired. Her daughter uses the same starter to feed her boys. “It’s a family tradition,” she said.
[5] A sourdough starter comes into your life the way a turtle might: as a pet you maybe didn’t know you wanted until someone hands it to you or you find yourself holding the terrarium after an impulse purchase you couldn’t explain if you tried. You get it or you make it or you buy it, and now you have a sourdough starter. It needs to be fed. It asks to be used.
[6] There are holes in our lives. They are filled for us by circumstance, or we fill them ourselves.
[7] “You do this simple thing,” said the comedian Tom Papa, who has been feeding and using his starter in Los Angeles for more than a year now, after he received it from one of his daughters as a Christmas gift. “And it changes your life.”
[8] Sourdough starter is simply flour and water left to ferment, a medium that supports the wild yeast and lactobacilli that surround us all. Fed with more flour, and more water, a sourdough eventually achieves a kind of symbiosis that helps dough rise, without the use of cultivated yeast. That it delivers a pungent, slightly sour and deeply alluring taste to all that you cook with it is a happy side effect. Taste is not, strictly speaking, the point of sourdough.
[9] “A lot of us think that sourdough is a style of bread,” the writer Michael Pollan said in one episode of “Cooked,” his new documentary series on Netflix. “But what sourdough is, is the traditional way that bread was made until only about 100 years ago.”
[10] Mr. Pollan can sometimes sound bossy. “Sourdough is the proper way to make bread,” he said in one segment.
[11] It is certainly a simple way to make bread, at least once you have a starter up and going, though the process takes time, because the wild yeast in a sourdough starter is less vigorous than its commercial counterparts. Make bread with a sourdough starter, and the dough rises slowly as the starter ferments and changes, and as it reacts to all manner of factors, like flour type, air temperature, humidity and altitude.
[12] A baker can react to those factors with science or conviction. Erika Szymanski, an American doctoral student at the University of Otago, in New Zealand, has a master’s degree in microbiology and uses her sourdough regularly, for pancakes, skillet breads and rye loaves alike. But she is hardly doctrinaire about its care.
[13] “Sourdough is alive, and so are we,” she said. “The whole deal, I think, has to be about figuring out a relationship that works for both parties. And if it’s unconventional, whose business is it to replace love with fear and claim that you’re doing it wrong?”
[14] Start at the top, then. See if you can’t get some starter from someone. Anyone who has one will be glad to part with a cup or so, because to maintain its balance and size, you need to use or discard part of the starter each time you feed it.
[15] Or buy some — sourdough starters have started to show up at farmers’ markets and on Etsy. The website Cultures for Health sells one. So does King Arthur Flour. Katie Walker, a spokeswoman for the company, said sales of starter are up for the company, and on track to be 20 percent higher than last year. “How to Make Your Own Sourdough Starter,” she added, is King Arthur’s top-performing blog post.
[16] So you might try making a starter yourself, combining a cup of water and a cup of flour in a covered bowl and allowing it to sit at room temperature until it begins to bubble and bloom. You can speed the process with grapes, as the baker Nancy Silverton advised years ago on a Julia Child television show.
[17] Peter Reinhart, the author of “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice,” uses a few ounces of unsweetened pineapple juice. Add the juice instead of water to the flour and let it sit, he wrote on his blog a few years ago; a few days later your starter should begin to come to life. Nourish its bubbles with more flour, and water.
[18] Once you have an active starter, which is to say one that is light and bubbly, with a pleasant yeasty-boozy aroma, a fork appears in the road. Obsessives and frequent bakers keep their starters out on their countertops, using the stuff daily, feeding it daily. Some people name their starters: William Butler Yeast, Herman, Sarah, Sky Pilot, Ms. Tippity, Eleanor, Roxanne.
[19] The rest of us keep sourdough starters in the refrigerator, which slows their metabolism, allowing us to use them, and feed them, less frequently. (We do not name our livestock.)
[20] Still, a starter must be fed. The bakers at King Arthur prescribe a diet of a scant cup of all-purpose flour and 1/2 cup of lukewarm water. Others increase the amount of water, or alter the kind of flour according to their tastes, using rye or whole wheat.
[21] Samuel Fromartz, a home baker whose “In Search of the Perfect Loaf” is an invaluable guide for beginning bakers, said these serial feedings make it clear that the notion that any particular starter can be traced back over decades, even centuries, is hokum. (King Arthur Flour says its starter is a strain that dates to the 1800s.)
[22] “Ultimately,” Mr. Fromartz said, a sourdough starter “adapts to your kitchen, feeding regime and feedstock, which will favor certain yeast and bacteria over time.”
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