For Old-Fashioned Flavor, Bake the Baking Soda

导读

众所周知,各种酸性物质是食材中的无价宝!柠檬汁和青柠汁、各种醋、酸味盐、柠檬酸,它们能够点亮和平衡几乎所有食物的味道。但是,它们在化学上的对立面,也就是碱性物质的境遇则大相径庭
多数厨师其实只用过小苏打,无非就是用小苏打和酸性物质来中和,从而产生二氧化碳气泡使松饼和烘焙食品发酵。我们从来不用小苏打来调味,它是一种矿物质,像多数碱类物质一样,尝起来有苦味儿和肥皂味。
其实,有很多同样味道不佳的碱性物质却创造了独特的美味食物,甚至碱液这种做下水道清洁剂都绰绰有余的强碱性物质,现在都可以在网上或者专卖店以食品级的方式售卖,用来制作pretzel这种德国的面包。
你可能拒绝使用有腐蚀性的,最好带着手套来操作的食材烹饪,可是,从另一方面讲,小苏打太温和了,根本无法达到碱液可以产生的风味和质感。好在最简单的化学魔术就可以助你从碗橱中造出一款更强劲并且通用的碱性物质,你只要把小苏打烤一下就好了!
要是想知道为什么你可能想要试试,那就考虑一下有很多种神奇的预加工食品它们的独特性都和碱性物质相关。墨西哥玉米饼的明显的花香和肉香就是源于最初用碱性的矿物质的石灰对玉米粒的烹饪。用于制作热巧克力的温和的可可粉是通过用碱性的碳酸盐矿物质加工天然可可得来的,奥利奥饼干的风味和黑颜色也是这一过程的极端版本。
碱液是制作温和的、黄油般质感的腌橄榄的标准原料,也能把鳕鱼干变成胶状的名为lutefisk的斯堪的纳维亚怪胎。你还可以把鸡蛋在一种碱液和盐的卤汁中腌制一到两个星期,就会得到一个皮蛋版本,蛋清是令人吃惊的透明的固体,同样令人吃惊的还有气味儿。
酸和碱反应出水的双重性。水分子H2O可以分解为一个带正电的质子和一个带负电的羟基。在纯净的中性水中,质子和羟基的数量是等量的。如果你在水中添加一些物质导致质子的数量偏多,那么这个混合物就是酸性的;如果你添加的物质导致羟基的数量胜出,那么这个混合物就是碱性的。
为什么质子和羟基的比例如此重要呢?因为这些带电物质很小、流动性又强,很快会和更大、更复杂的分子发生反应,改变他们和由他们构成的食物。羟基尤其擅长把脂肪和油类打散,并且把他们变成肥皂。这也许就是为什么碱类物质在手指上和嘴里都会感觉很滑,他们被认为和微量的皮肤油脂发生反应,形成随后能润滑表面的肥皂。
碱类物质的强度是不一样的。碱液浓度很大,并且有腐蚀性,因为它就是钠和羟基的简单组合。强度稍弱的碱类物质是碳酸盐,其中就包括小苏打。碳酸盐类不含有羟基,他们是通过吸收质子,而从水分子中释放出羟基。小苏打是碳酸氢钠,它已经含有一个质子,因此再吸收质子的能力有限。但是,如果你加热小苏打,它的分子就会彼此反应释放出水和二氧化碳,而形成固态的不含有质子的碳酸钠。
撒一层小苏打在包着锡纸的烤盘上,华氏250度到300度,也就是摄氏120度到150度之间烤一个小时,有三分之一的小苏打的重量会转变成水和二氧化碳损失掉,但是,你得到了一种更强的碱性物质。把烤过的小苏打存在一个密封性很好的罐子里,避免因为接触空气而吸收水分,同时也要避免接触或者把它洒出来;虽然不是碱液,但是,还是浓度大到有刺激性的。
烤过的小苏打的浓度也足以作为制作pretzel的碱液的很好的替代物。为了获得那种独特的风味和深棕的颜色,pretzel的制作者把成型的生面在烤制之前快速地浸在碱液中,很多家庭烘焙配方用小苏打替代碱液,但是,结果味道尝起来像面包棒,而不是pretzel。其实,烤过的小苏打的效果更接近真正的浸过碱液的pretzel。把三分之二杯的烤过的小苏打溶于两杯水中,之后把成型的生pretzel浸在这个溶液中三到四分钟;另取一个大碗,里面装满清水,把多余蘸取的溶液清洗掉,之后就可以进入烤箱了!
烤过的小苏打,也就是碳酸钠,在中国的厨房中也是一个标准的食材,只不过被称之为“碱”。 邓洛普是一位旅居伦敦的中国烹饪专家,她通过邮件告诉作者,碱被添加到面包面团中来中和面肥在发酵过程中产生的酸;再腌泡汁中碱起到的作用是软化肉质,碱还能够使如皮革般的鱿鱼干恢复软嫩、滑溜的质感。碱也是中国碱面中起决定性作用的食材,邓洛普解释说,碱能够增加面的弹性,赋予它们一种独特的风味和爽滑的口感,同时也把面染成了黄色。
西方人对人中国碱面最熟悉的版本莫过于日本的拉面了,通常用碱水来制作,这是一种碳酸钠和碳酸钾的混合物。纽约厨师David Chang在自己出版的烹饪书籍“Momofuku”中发布了一个食谱,作者实践了这个食谱,并且发现可以只用烤过的小苏打来制作碱面。
作者还发现,标准的面包面粉和普通的面粉做出来的面条颜色不够黄,可能是因为这些精制面粉中含有的小麦色素比较少。作者试着用杜兰小麦粉,也就是通常用来做干意大利面的那种天然黄色的粗粉来制作面团,结果做出来的面条在延展性上差一些,并且表面更粗糙;但是,在颜色上黄的很正、爽滑、滋味饱满。这种杜兰小麦粉和碱的组合听起来可能挺怪的,但是,作者认为这是一种制作鸡蛋面而不用鸡蛋的方法,也是这个地球上两个伟大的面条文明一次愉快的联手!

更多剧透

第一步:解决高频单词

mainstay ['meɪnsteɪ]

n.支柱

myriad ['mɪrɪəd]

adj.无数的

draw the line 

拒绝

cook sth up 

虚构

versatile ['vɜːsətaɪl]

adj.多才多艺的;通用的

intriguing [ɪn'triɡɪŋ]

adj.迷人的

variety [və'raɪətɪ]

n.多样化;种类

oddity ['ɒdɪtɪ]

n.怪人;怪事

trace [treɪs]

n.踪迹;微量

spill [spɪl]

v.溢

60p

第二步:精读重点段落

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第四段:
You may draw the line at cooking with a corrosive ingredient best handled with gloves. On the other hand, baking soda is too mild to produce the particular flavors and textures that lye can. But thanks to the simplest chemical magic, you can cook up a more muscular and versatile alkali from your cupboard. You just bake the baking soda.

  • draw the line   拒绝
  • cook up   虚构
  • versatile    adj.通用的

第八段:
Why do proton-hydroxyl proportions matter? Because these charged bits are small, mobile and quick to react with larger, more complicated molecules — changing them, and the foods they’re part of. Hydroxyls are especially good at breaking fats and oils apart and turning them into soaps. This is probably the reason that alkaline materials feel slippery on the fingers or in the mouth. They’re thought to react with trace skin oils and form soaps that then lubricate the surfaces.

  • trace   n.微量
85p

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表示感官的系动词:
linking verb [ C ] specialized
a verb which connects the qualities of an object or person to that object or person
In the sentence 'My bags weigh 45kg', 'weigh' is a linking verb.

be
feel, look, smell, sound, taste, appear, prove, seem
become, come, fall, get, go, grow, turn , keep, remain, stay

第二段:
It’s a mineral, like most alkalis, and it tastes bitter and soapy.
第十三段:
Many home recipes replace the lye with baking soda, but the results taste like breadsticks, not pretzels.
第八段:
This is probably the reason that alkaline materials feel slippery on the fingers or in the mouth.
第十九段:
This semolina-jian mixture may sound odd, but I think of it as making eggy noodles without eggs, a happy hybrid from the planet’s preeminent noodle cultures.

100p

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(Tips: 双击文中单词可以查释义并加入你的生词本哦)

For Old-Fashioned Flavor, Bake the Baking Soda

第一段:
ACIDS are invaluable mainstay cooking ingredients. Lemon and lime juices, myriad vinegars and sour salt, or citric acid, can brighten and balance the flavor of almost any food. But what about their chemical opposites, the un-acids? These are the alkalis, and they’re a different story.

  • mainstay  n.支柱
  • myriad  adj.无数的
  • alkali   n.碱

第二段:
The only alkali that most cooks have ever used is baking soda. And about all we do with it is pair it with a neutralizing acid to make carbon dioxide bubbles that leaven pancakes or baked goods. We never use it as a flavoring. It’s a mineral, like most alkalis, and it tastes bitter and soapy.

  • baking soda  小苏打
  • carbon dioxide  二氧化碳
  • leaven   vt.使发酵

第三段:
In fact there are a number of equally distasteful alkalis that still manage to create distinctively tasty foods, and they’re becoming easier to find. Even lye, an alkali strong enough to double as a drain cleaner, is now sold online and in specialty shops in food-grade form for making pretzels.

  • lye   n.碱液
  • drain cleaner  下水道清洗剂
  • pretzel   一种德国的面包

第四段:
You may draw the line at cooking with a corrosive ingredient best handled with gloves. On the other hand, baking soda is too mild to produce the particular flavors and textures that lye can. But thanks to the simplest chemical magic, you can cook up a more muscular and versatile alkali from your cupboard. You just bake the baking soda.

  • draw the line   拒绝
  • corrosive   adj.腐蚀的
  • cook up   虚构
  • muscular   adj.强健的
  • versatile    adj.通用的

第五段:
To understand why you might want to do this, consider that an intriguing variety of prepared foods owe their special qualities to alkalis. The unmistakable aroma of corn tortillas, both meaty and flowery, develops from the initial cooking of the corn kernels with the alkaline mineral lime. Mild cocoa powders for hot chocolate are made by treating natural cocoas with alkaline carbonate minerals. The flavor and black color of Oreo cookies come from an extreme version of this process.

  • intriguing   adj.有趣的;迷人的
  • corn kernel   玉米粒
  • alkaline   adj.碱性的
  • carbonate    n.碳酸盐

第六段:
Lye is a standard ingredient for making the mild, buttery style of cured olives. It also turns dried cod into the gelatinous Scandinavian oddity called lutefisk. And you can immerse eggs in a lye-salt brine for a week or two and get a version of Chinese century eggs, with solid but startlingly transparent whites and an equally startling aroma.

  • cured   adj.熏制的;腌制的
  • cod   n.鳕鱼
  • gelatinous   adj.胶状的
  • oddity   n.奇特的东西
  • lutefisk   碱渍鱼
  • brine   n.卤水
  • Chinese century eggs  皮蛋
  • startling  adj.令人吃惊的

第七段:
Acids and alkalis reflect the double nature of water. The water molecule, H2O, can come apart into a positively charged H, or proton, and a negatively charged OH, or hydroxyl. In pure neutral water, there are equal numbers of protons and hydroxyls. If you add something to the water that shifts the balance in favor of protons, then the mixture is acidic. If you add something that causes hydroxyls to outnumber protons, then the mixture is alkaline.

  • positively charged   带正电的
  • proton   n.质子
  • hydroxyl   n.羟基

第八段:
Why do proton-hydroxyl proportions matter? Because these charged bits are small, mobile and quick to react with larger, more complicated molecules — changing them, and the foods they’re part of. Hydroxyls are especially good at breaking fats and oils apart and turning them into soaps. This is probably the reason that alkaline materials feel slippery on the fingers or in the mouth. They’re thought to react with trace skin oils and form soaps that then lubricate the surfaces.

  • lubricate   v.润滑
  • trace   n.微量

第九段:
Alkaline materials come in different strengths. Lye is especially strong and corrosive because it’s a simple combination of sodium and hydroxyls.

  • sodium   n.钠

第十段:
A weaker group of alkalis is the carbonates, which include baking soda. The carbonates don’t contain hydroxyls. Instead they soak up protons, and release hydroxyls from water molecules.

  • soak up   吸收

第十一段:
Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, which already includes one proton and so has a limited ability to take up more. But if you heat baking soda, its molecules react with one another to give off water and carbon dioxide and form solid sodium carbonate, which is proton-free.

  • sodium bicarbonate  碳酸氢钠
  • carbon dioxide  二氧化碳
  • sodium carbonate  碳酸钠

第十二段:
Just spread a layer of soda on a foil-covered baking sheet and bake it at 250 to 300 degrees for an hour. You’ll lose about a third of the soda’s weight in water and carbon dioxide, but you gain a stronger alkali. Keep baked soda in a tightly sealed jar to prevent it from absorbing moisture from the air. And avoid touching or spilling it. It’s not lye, but it’s strong enough to irritate.

  • foil-covered  包着锡纸的
  • spill  v.溢;撒
  • irritate   v.刺激;激怒

第十三段:
Baked soda is also strong enough to make a good lye substitute for pretzels. In order to get that distinctive flavor and deep brown color, pretzel makers briefly dunk the shaped pieces of raw dough in a lye solution before baking them. Many home recipes replace the lye with baking soda, but the results taste like breadsticks, not pretzels.

  • dunk  vt.泡;浸

第十四段:
Baked soda does a much better job of approximating true lye-dipped pretzels. Just dissolve 2/3 cup (about 100 grams) in 2 cups of water, immerse the formed raw pretzels in this solution for three to four minutes, rinse off the excess dipping solution in a large bowl of plain water, and bake.

  • rinse off   洗净

第十五段:
Baked soda (sodium carbonate) is also a standard ingredient in Chinese kitchens, where it’s called jian. Fuchsia Dunlop, an expert on Chinese cooking who is based in London, told me by e-mail that jian is added to bread and bun doughs to neutralize the acidity of the sourdough fermentation, in marinades for tenderizing tough meats, and to reconstitute leathery dried squid, which becomes very tender and “slithery.”

  • marinade  n.腌泡汁
  • leathery  adj.坚韧粗糙的
  • slithery  adj.滑溜的

第十六段:
It’s also the defining ingredient in Chinese alkaline wheat noodles. Ms. Dunlop explained that jian increases their springiness and gives them a distinctive flavor and a refreshing, slippery mouth-feel. It also tints them yellow.

  • defining  adj.起决定作用的
  • springiness  n.弹性

第十七段:
The version of Chinese alkaline noodles most familiar in the West is the Japanese ramen soup noodle. It’s normally made with kansui, a mixture of sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. The New York chef David Chang published a recipe in his cookbook “Momofuku.” I experimented with Mr. Chang’s recipe, and found that I could get the alkaline noodle qualities with baked soda alone.

  • kansui  碱水
  • potassium carbonate  碳酸钾

第十八段:
I also found that standard bread and all-purpose flours didn’t develop much yellow color, probably because refined flours have low levels of the wheat pigments that produce it. I tried making a dough with durum semolina, the naturally yellow coarse flour used to make dry Italian-style pastas. The noodles came out less stretchy and with a rougher surface, but they were properly yellow, slippery and full flavored.

  • pigment  n.色素
  • durum semolina  杜兰小麦粉
  • stretchy  adj.有弹性的;能延展的

第十九段:
This semolina-jian mixture may sound odd, but I think of it as making eggy noodles without eggs, a happy hybrid from the planet’s preeminent noodle cultures.

  • hybrid  n.混合物
  • preeminent  adj.卓越的
200p

mainstay ['meɪnsteɪ]

n.支柱

myriad ['mɪrɪəd]

adj.无数的

draw the line 

拒绝

cook sth up 

虚构

versatile ['vɜːsətaɪl]

adj.多才多艺的;通用的

intriguing [ɪn'triɡɪŋ]

adj.迷人的

variety [və'raɪətɪ]

n.多样化;种类

oddity ['ɒdɪtɪ]

n.怪人;怪事

trace [treɪs]

n.踪迹;微量

spill [spɪl]

v.溢

不要一时兴起,就要天天在一起

明天见!


下载音频

For Old-Fashioned Flavor, Bake the Baking Soda

第一段:
ACIDS are invaluable mainstay cooking ingredients. Lemon and lime juices, myriad vinegars and sour salt, or citric acid, can brighten and balance the flavor of almost any food. But what about their chemical opposites, the un-acids? These are the alkalis, and they’re a different story.

第二段:
The only alkali that most cooks have ever used is baking soda. And about all we do with it is pair it with a neutralizing acid to make carbon dioxide bubbles that leaven pancakes or baked goods. We never use it as a flavoring. It’s a mineral, like most alkalis, and it tastes bitter and soapy.

第三段:
In fact there are a number of equally distasteful alkalis that still manage to create distinctively tasty foods, and they’re becoming easier to find. Even lye, an alkali strong enough to double as a drain cleaner, is now sold online and in specialty shops in food-grade form for making pretzels.

第四段:
You may draw the line at cooking with a corrosive ingredient best handled with gloves. On the other hand, baking soda is too mild to produce the particular flavors and textures that lye can. But thanks to the simplest chemical magic, you can cook up a more muscular and versatile alkali from your cupboard. You just bake the baking soda.

第五段:
To understand why you might want to do this, consider that an intriguing variety of prepared foods owe their special qualities to alkalis. The unmistakable aroma of corn tortillas, both meaty and flowery, develops from the initial cooking of the corn kernels with the alkaline mineral lime. Mild cocoa powders for hot chocolate are made by treating natural cocoas with alkaline carbonate minerals. The flavor and black color of Oreo cookies come from an extreme version of this process.

第六段:
Lye is a standard ingredient for making the mild, buttery style of cured olives. It also turns dried cod into the gelatinous Scandinavian oddity called lutefisk. And you can immerse eggs in a lye-salt brine for a week or two and get a version of Chinese century eggs, with solid but startlingly transparent whites and an equally startling aroma.

第七段:
Acids and alkalis reflect the double nature of water. The water molecule, H2O, can come apart into a positively charged H, or proton, and a negatively charged OH, or hydroxyl. In pure neutral water, there are equal numbers of protons and hydroxyls. If you add something to the water that shifts the balance in favor of protons, then the mixture is acidic. If you add something that causes hydroxyls to outnumber protons, then the mixture is alkaline.

第八段:
Why do proton-hydroxyl proportions matter? Because these charged bits are small, mobile and quick to react with larger, more complicated molecules — changing them, and the foods they’re part of. Hydroxyls are especially good at breaking fats and oils apart and turning them into soaps. This is probably the reason that alkaline materials feel slippery on the fingers or in the mouth. They’re thought to react with trace skin oils and form soaps that then lubricate the surfaces.

第九段:
Alkaline materials come in different strengths. Lye is especially strong and corrosive because it’s a simple combination of sodium and hydroxyls.

第十段:
A weaker group of alkalis is the carbonates, which include baking soda. The carbonates don’t contain hydroxyls. Instead they soak up protons, and release hydroxyls from water molecules.

第十一段:
Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, which already includes one proton and so has a limited ability to take up more. But if you heat baking soda, its molecules react with one another to give off water and carbon dioxide and form solid sodium carbonate, which is proton-free.

第十二段:
Just spread a layer of soda on a foil-covered baking sheet and bake it at 250 to 300 degrees for an hour. You’ll lose about a third of the soda’s weight in water and carbon dioxide, but you gain a stronger alkali. Keep baked soda in a tightly sealed jar to prevent it from absorbing moisture from the air. And avoid touching or spilling it. It’s not lye, but it’s strong enough to irritate.

第十三段:
Baked soda is also strong enough to make a good lye substitute for pretzels. In order to get that distinctive flavor and deep brown color, pretzel makers briefly dunk the shaped pieces of raw dough in a lye solution before baking them. Many home recipes replace the lye with baking soda, but the results taste like breadsticks, not pretzels.

第十四段:
Baked soda does a much better job of approximating true lye-dipped pretzels. Just dissolve 2/3 cup (about 100 grams) in 2 cups of water, immerse the formed raw pretzels in this solution for three to four minutes, rinse off the excess dipping solution in a large bowl of plain water, and bake.

第十五段:
Baked soda (sodium carbonate) is also a standard ingredient in Chinese kitchens, where it’s called jian. Fuchsia Dunlop, an expert on Chinese cooking who is based in London, told me by e-mail that jian is added to bread and bun doughs to neutralize the acidity of the sourdough fermentation, in marinades for tenderizing tough meats, and to reconstitute leathery dried squid, which becomes very tender and “slithery.”

第十六段:
It’s also the defining ingredient in Chinese alkaline wheat noodles. Ms. Dunlop explained that jian increases their springiness and gives them a distinctive flavor and a refreshing, slippery mouth-feel. It also tints them yellow.

第十七段:
The version of Chinese alkaline noodles most familiar in the West is the Japanese ramen soup noodle. It’s normally made with kansui, a mixture of sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. The New York chef David Chang published a recipe in his cookbook “Momofuku.” I experimented with Mr. Chang’s recipe, and found that I could get the alkaline noodle qualities with baked soda alone.

第十八段:
I also found that standard bread and all-purpose flours didn’t develop much yellow color, probably because refined flours have low levels of the wheat pigments that produce it. I tried making a dough with durum semolina, the naturally yellow coarse flour used to make dry Italian-style pastas. The noodles came out less stretchy and with a rougher surface, but they were properly yellow, slippery and full flavored.

第十九段:
This semolina-jian mixture may sound odd, but I think of it as making eggy noodles without eggs, a happy hybrid from the planet’s preeminent noodle cultures.

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