The Intense Pleasures Of Dark Chocolate

导读

品尝黑巧是时下世界范围内的风尚,那么,好的黑巧是如何得来的呢?为了吃的明白,我们需要大概了解一下这个过程!

从选择可可开始,世界上的可可只有三个品种:forastero、trinitario和criollo,其中最耐虫害、最高产的就是来自巴西和西非的forastero,但是,滋味欠佳;来自中美洲的trinitario滋味更凸现,通常和forastero拼配在一起来增加风味;滋味和香气最棒的要属criollo,主要产自委内瑞拉和中美洲,在印尼也少有种植,但是,特别金贵,产量稀少,价值不菲。绝大多数的巧克力都是由这三种可可拼配而来,用的trinitario和criollo越多,滋味就越好。

可可豆荚长的有足球那么大,采收之后会把其中的可可豆取出来,在热带气候下直接发酵几天,在这个过程中不但颜色会由紫变褐,巧克力的典型香气和风味也在形成。之后是干燥和烘烤环节,用于制作上好欧洲或欧式巧克力的可可豆要经过低温、长时间烘烤,所以,一般滋味比较微妙;美国的厂商往往是高温速成烘烤,所以,会导致巧克力苦味偏重,最终就只能通过添加糖和香草来遮掩,有的甚至用的是人造香草精。

烘烤过程结束之后,可可豆会破裂开来,外壳会被扬出去,只留下散碎的精化;它们会被进一步磨碎、加热成为液体,其中一半儿是可可脂,会被分离出去;剩下的物质继续研磨,要么变为可可粉,要么和可可脂、糖和其他原料相混合。后者要经历最终的精炼工序,精炼时间越长,成品就会越丝滑,极品巧克力的精炼过程有可能历时三天。

美国的食品和药品监管局对于各种类型巧克力的最低可可含量是有规定的,但是,和世界通行的标准是不一致的,所以,美国的分类就不作为参考了。值得一提的是,白巧克力在技术上并不属于巧克力,因为根本不含有可可;最便宜的白巧甚至连可可脂都不用。现如今,优质的巧克力在包装上都会注明可可含量,有的还会贴上可可豆产地标签,就像葡萄酒和咖啡那样。

接下来我们关注的是巧克力的品鉴:首先打开包装的时候,最好的巧克力一定是绝对的光滑并且有光泽的。如果见到了暗淡的斑点或线条,那就意味着低劣的品质或者不当的存储。

在室温下巧克力断裂的方式也会展现它的品质。优质的黑巧应该出现伴随着“噼啪声”的利落折断,而不是粉粹或者破碎。牛奶巧克力由于乳制品的介入,软化了巧克力的组织结构,折断时的声音有别于黑巧。

在香气上,优质的黑巧应该丰富、浓郁,甚至出现果香、酒香、香料,一丝雪松或者烟草味,不应该觉察出发霉的、烧焦的或者化学的气味。在滋味上,巧克力的浓香应该是有甜味来平衡的,但绝不应该被甜味儿淹没,苦味儿也应该在一定的限度内。最后是口感,巧克力应该在你的口中开始融化,丝滑的奶油质感,而不应该出现蜡质的、砂质的、粘性的或者油腻的感觉。

最后就是一些加分项了,香料或者类似梅子或者柑橘类的痕迹通常可以增加巧克力的复杂度,起到同样作用的还有坚果香、甘草和焦糖味儿。一些活跃的酸度也会强化巧克力的复杂度,就像在好的咖啡和红酒中的一样。总体而言,回味应该是美妙的!只有靠尽可能多的品尝,你才有可能开始彻底了解品牌之间的差异,甚至是同一厂商风格的变化。

更多剧透

第一步:解决高频单词

linger ['lɪŋgə]

vi.继续留存

polish off 

草草完成

run-of-the-mill 

adj.普通的

finesse [fɪ'nes]

n.技法

home in on sb/sth 

把注意力集中于

nuanced ['njuːɑːnst]

adj.微妙的

junk [dʒʌŋk]

n.垃圾

gauge [geɪdʒ]

vt.测量;判断

overwhelm [əʊvə'welm]

vt.压倒;受打击;淹没

fathom ['fæð(ə)m]

vt.彻底了解

60p

第二步:精读重点段落

(Tips: 双击文中单词可以查释义并加入你的生词本哦)

第四段
And you can be frivolous about it, no longer worrying, as you might have just a few years ago, that if you polish off this excellent chocolate you might not find more. Supply and demand are merging, and every fine-food shop now carries chocolate that's worlds away from the run-of-the-mill candy bar.

  • polish off  草草完成
  • run-of-the-mill  adj.普通的

第二十段
And let's face it, if you like chocolate, the proof is in the eating. The rich intensity of the chocolate should be balanced, but never overwhelmed, by sweetness. Nor should it be too bitter, although that's a matter of personal preference. If you're used to everyday chocolate, a high-octane blend might overwhelm your taste buds at first.

  • overwhelm  vt.压倒;受打击;淹没

第二十二段
Hints of spice or of fruit like berries or citrus often add complexity to the chocolate, as does a touch of nutty, licorice or caramel flavor. Some lively acidity, an attribute you might seek in good coffee or fine red wine, can also enhance chocolate. The aftertaste should linger pleasantly. Only by tasting, as often as possible, can you begin to fathom the variations from brand to brand and even among the styles offered by a single maker.

  • linger  v.继续留存
  • fathom  vt.彻底了解
85p

第三步:攻克必学语法

once用法总结:

作为副词
one single time  一次
I went sailing once, but I didn't like it.
We have lunch together once a month.

in the past, but not now 曾经
This house once belonged to my grandfather.
Computers are much cheaper nowadays than they once were.

作为连词
as soon as, or from the moment when 一旦
Once I've found somewhere to live I'll send you my address.
Remember that you won't be able to cancel the contract once you've signed.

第八段
Once the bumpy football-size cacao pods are harvested, the beans are taken out and left to ferment for a few days in the tropical heat.

第十四段
On the other hand, once ingredients like nuts and liqueurs, praline and fruit peel are added to fine chocolate, the percentage that is pure chocolate decreases.

第十七段
Once you unwrap chocolate, you can gauge it by eye: the best is flawlessly smooth, with a lustrous sheen.

100p

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(Tips: 双击文中单词可以查释义并加入你的生词本哦)

The Intense Pleasures Of Dark Chocolate

第一段
FIRST, the aroma beckons. The intense scent drawing you in is unmistakably that of rich chocolate, but you detect exotic hints of clove, coffee, orange peel, even cedar. The bar is dark and shiny, scored into sections. It breaks cleanly, with a definite snap.

  • beckon  v.吸引人
  • exotic  adj.异国情调的
  • cedar  n.雪松
  • score  vt.刻划
  • snap  n.噼啪声

第二段
At this point you don't even need to taste it to know you're dealing with extremely fine chocolate.

第三段
This is the dark bittersweet kind that delivers its flavor without the intrusion of a milky taste or an overdose of sugar. You take a bite, and as it softens and melts in your mouth, the complexity is comparable to a good red wine. The chocolate feels satiny, utterly smooth and flawless. The flavor lingers, but you must have another taste.

  • intrusion  n.侵入
  • satiny  adj.柔滑的
  • linger  v.继续留存

第四段
And you can be frivolous about it, no longer worrying, as you might have just a few years ago, that if you polish off this excellent chocolate you might not find more. Supply and demand are merging, and every fine-food shop now carries chocolate that's worlds away from the run-of-the-mill candy bar.

  • frivolous  adj.轻佻的
  • polish off  草草完成
  • merge  v.融合
  • run-of-the-mill  adj.普通的

第五段
What makes all these chocolates superb? It starts with the selection of the cacao beans and how they are fermented, roasted and blended. The finesse with which the chocolate is processed and how much sugar or other ingredients are added all affect the aroma, flavor and texture.

  • finesse  v.手法

第六段
Like winemakers, chocolate makers start by homing in on the best beans from particular regions and microclimates. Most of the world's chocolate is made from forastero beans, the equivalent of the cheaper robusta beans that dominate the coffee business. Forastero is the most disease-resistant, highest-yielding cacao, from trees grown in Brazil and West Africa, but it is certainly not the most flavorful and tends to have a rough, astringent taste.

  • home in on sb/sth  把注意力集中于
  • equivalent  n.等价物/adj.等价物

第七段
Trinitario, from Central America, has a more pronounced flavor and is usually blended with forastero to give it character. Criollo, grown mostly in Venezuela and Central America but also in Indonesia, is the richest and most fragrant, but it is also the most fragile, rarest and costliest. Most chocolate is a blend, and the more trinitario and criollo, the better the flavor.

  • fragile  adj.脆弱的

第八段
Once the bumpy football-size cacao pods are harvested, the beans are taken out and left to ferment for a few days in the tropical heat. Fermentation turns them from violet to brown and encourages the characteristic aromas and flavors of chocolate to develop. Next, the beans are dried, then roasted.

  • bumpy  adj.高低不平的
  • pod  n.豆荚

第九段
The finest European and European-style chocolates are made from beans that have been roasted longer and at lower temperatures than most American manufacturers use, so the chocolate delivers more nuanced flavors. The quicker, higher-heat roasting generally employed in the United States tends to result in more bitterness, which is masked only by adding more sugar and ingredients like vanilla. Some American chocolates are overloaded with vanilla, the worst with imitation vanilla flavor.

  • nuanced  adj.微妙的
  • mask  v.遮掩
  • imitation  n.仿制品

第十段
After roasting, the beans are cracked open and their husks winnowed away, leaving the essence of chocolate, called the nibs. These are ground, heated and turned into chocolate liquor, a thick, nonalcoholic substance that is about half cocoa butter, which is melted and separated out. The rest of the liquor is finely ground and can be turned into cocoa powder or mixed with cocoa butter, sugar and other ingredients.

  • crack  v.(使)破裂
  • husk  n.外科
  • winnow  v.扬谷

第十一段
At this point the chocolate goes through a final refining, or pulverizing, process called conching (the ''ch'' is pronounced as in ''poncho''). The longer the chocolate is conched, the more velvety it will feel. The highest-quality chocolate may be conched for up to three days.

  • pulverize  v.粉碎,研磨
  • velvety  adj.柔滑的

第十二段
Manufacturers do not reveal how long they conch their chocolate, but in fact, it has become easier to determine the quality of a chocolate even before the bar is unwrapped. The best bars now have a percentage on the wrapper indicating the amount of chocolate -- the combination of cocoa butter and cocoa solids -- it contains, and that's a guide to sweetness and quality.

  • reveal   vt.揭露

第十三段
The Food and Drug Administration requires that all semisweet and bittersweet chocolate contain a minimum of 35 percent chocolate, a decidedly low standard. Sweet chocolate must have 15 percent, and milk chocolate only 10 percent. The manufacturers of low-grade chocolate stick to the minimum and bulk up the product with sugar, emulsifiers, vegetable oil and other fats and fillers. (White chocolate is technically not considered chocolate because it contains no chocolate liquor. The cheapest white chocolate may even be made without any cocoa butter.)

  • decidedly  adv.毫无疑问
  • bulk up  壮大
  • emulsifier  n.乳化剂

第十四段
The finest semisweet and bittersweet chocolates post percentages ranging from 62 to 72 percent. And there is little or no room for junk in a bar that's 70 percent chocolate -- the rest is basically sugar. On the other hand, once ingredients like nuts and liqueurs, praline and fruit peel are added to fine chocolate, the percentage that is pure chocolate decreases. Top-quality milk chocolate may have only 54 percent chocolate solids.

  • post  vt.公布
  • junk  n.垃圾
  • praline  n.果仁糖

第十五段
The numbers game began with Valrhona about 10 years ago and now is used increasingly by others, including Lindt and several American companies, including Scharffen Berger, Chocolove and Richard H. Donnelly. Usually if no percentage is given, you can assume it is less than 60 percent, and often considerably less.

第十六段
Another indication of quality is naming the source of the cacao beans on the label. Valrhona offers chocolates from different regions and various blends, from the Caribbean and South America. Its Caraibe chocolate, for instance, is labeled pure Caribbean trinitario. As with wines or coffee, each delivers a different flavor profile.

第十七段
Once you unwrap chocolate, you can gauge it by eye: the best is flawlessly smooth, with a lustrous sheen. This quality applies not just to plain bars, but also to dipped or molded chocolate candies and truffles. Dull or grayish spots or streaks may be a sign of inferior quality, poor handling or bad storage conditions.

  • gauge  vt.测量;判断
  • lustrous  adj.有光泽的
  • sheen  n.光泽
  • dull    n.暗淡的
  • streak  n.线条

第十八段
You also judge chocolate by the way it breaks at room temperature. It should not crumble or splinter, but should have what is called ''snap,'' a clean brittleness. The milk solids added to milk chocolate soften the texture and prevent it from having the same snap as dark chocolate.

  • crumble  v.粉碎
  • splinter  v.裂成碎片
  • brittleness  n.脆

第十九段
The aroma should be rich and intense, even fruity, winy, spicy or with a hint of cedar or tobacco. You should not detect musty, charred or chemical smells.

  • musty  adj.发霉的
  • charred  adj.烧焦的

第二十段
And let's face it, if you like chocolate, the proof is in the eating. The rich intensity of the chocolate should be balanced, but never overwhelmed, by sweetness. Nor should it be too bitter, although that's a matter of personal preference. If you're used to everyday chocolate, a high-octane blend might overwhelm your taste buds at first.

  • overwhelm  vt.压倒;受打击;淹没
  • high-octane  adj.强烈的

第二十一段
Then there's texture. Because chocolate melts at close to body temperature, it should start to melt in your mouth, with a smooth creaminess and nothing waxy, gritty, gummy or greasy about it.

  • waxy   adj.像蜡的
  • gritty  adj.砂质的
  • gummy  adj.粘性的
  • greasy  adj.油腻的

第二十二段
Hints of spice or of fruit like berries or citrus often add complexity to the chocolate, as does a touch of nutty, licorice or caramel flavor. Some lively acidity, an attribute you might seek in good coffee or fine red wine, can also enhance chocolate. The aftertaste should linger pleasantly. Only by tasting, as often as possible, can you begin to fathom the variations from brand to brand and even among the styles offered by a single maker.

  • licorice  n.甘草
  • fathom  vt.彻底了解
200p

linger ['lɪŋgə]

vi.继续留存

polish off 

草草完成

run-of-the-mill 

adj.普通的

finesse [fɪ'nes]

n.技法

home in on sb/sth 

把注意力集中于

nuanced ['njuːɑːnst]

adj.微妙的

junk [dʒʌŋk]

n.垃圾

gauge [geɪdʒ]

vt.测量;判断

overwhelm [əʊvə'welm]

vt.压倒;受打击;淹没

fathom ['fæð(ə)m]

vt.彻底了解

不要一时兴起,就要天天在一起

明天见!


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The Intense Pleasures Of Dark Chocolate

第一段
FIRST, the aroma beckons. The intense scent drawing you in is unmistakably that of rich chocolate, but you detect exotic hints of clove, coffee, orange peel, even cedar. The bar is dark and shiny, scored into sections. It breaks cleanly, with a definite snap.

第二段
At this point you don't even need to taste it to know you're dealing with extremely fine chocolate.

第三段
This is the dark bittersweet kind that delivers its flavor without the intrusion of a milky taste or an overdose of sugar. You take a bite, and as it softens and melts in your mouth, the complexity is comparable to a good red wine. The chocolate feels satiny, utterly smooth and flawless. The flavor lingers, but you must have another taste.

第四段
And you can be frivolous about it, no longer worrying, as you might have just a few years ago, that if you polish off this excellent chocolate you might not find more. Supply and demand are merging, and every fine-food shop now carries chocolate that's worlds away from the run-of-the-mill candy bar.

第五段
What makes all these chocolates superb? It starts with the selection of the cacao beans and how they are fermented, roasted and blended. The finesse with which the chocolate is processed and how much sugar or other ingredients are added all affect the aroma, flavor and texture.

第六段
Like winemakers, chocolate makers start by homing in on the best beans from particular regions and microclimates. Most of the world's chocolate is made from forestaro beans, the equivalent of the cheaper robusta beans that dominate the coffee business. Forestaro is the most disease-resistant, highest-yielding cacao, from trees grown in Brazil and West Africa, but it is certainly not the most flavorful and tends to have a rough, astringent taste.

第七段
Trinitario, from Central America, has a more pronounced flavor and is usually blended with forestaro to give it character. Criollo, grown mostly in Venezuela and Central America but also in Indonesia, is the richest and most fragrant, but it is also the most fragile, rarest and costliest. Most chocolate is a blend, and the more trinitario and criollo, the better the flavor.

第八段
Once the bumpy football-size cacao pods are harvested, the beans are taken out and left to ferment for a few days in the tropical heat. Fermentation turns them from violet to brown and encourages the characteristic aromas and flavors of chocolate to develop. Next, the beans are dried, then roasted.

第九段
The finest European and European-style chocolates are made from beans that have been roasted longer and at lower temperatures than most American manufacturers use, so the chocolate delivers more nuanced flavors. The quicker, higher-heat roasting generally employed in the United States tends to result in more bitterness, which is masked only by adding more sugar and ingredients like vanilla. Some American chocolates are overloaded with vanilla, the worst with imitation vanilla flavor.

第十段
After roasting, the beans are cracked open and their husks winnowed away, leaving the essence of chocolate, called the nibs. These are ground, heated and turned into chocolate liquor, a thick, nonalcoholic substance that is about half cocoa butter, which is melted and separated out. The rest of the liquor is finely ground and can be turned into cocoa powder or mixed with cocoa butter, sugar and other ingredients.

第十一段
At this point the chocolate goes through a final refining, or pulverizing, process called conching (the ''ch'' is pronounced as in ''poncho''). The longer the chocolate is conched, the more velvety it will feel. The highest-quality chocolate may be conched for up to three days.

第十二段
Manufacturers do not reveal how long they conch their chocolate, but in fact, it has become easier to determine the quality of a chocolate even before the bar is unwrapped. The best bars now have a percentage on the wrapper indicating the amount of chocolate -- the combination of cocoa butter and cocoa solids -- it contains, and that's a guide to sweetness and quality.

第十三段
The Food and Drug Administration requires that all semisweet and bittersweet chocolate contain a minimum of 35 percent chocolate, a decidedly low standard. Sweet chocolate must have 15 percent, and milk chocolate only 10 percent. The manufacturers of low-grade chocolate stick to the minimum and bulk up the product with sugar, emulsifiers, vegetable oil and other fats and fillers. (White chocolate is technically not considered chocolate because it contains no chocolate liquor. The cheapest white chocolate may even be made without any cocoa butter.)

第十四段
The finest semisweet and bittersweet chocolates post percentages ranging from 62 to 72 percent. And there is little or no room for junk in a bar that's 70 percent chocolate -- the rest is basically sugar. On the other hand, once ingredients like nuts and liqueurs, praline and fruit peel are added to fine chocolate, the percentage that is pure chocolate decreases. Top-quality milk chocolate may have only 54 percent chocolate solids.

第十五段
The numbers game began with Valrhona about 10 years ago and now is used increasingly by others, including Lindt and several American companies, including Scharffen Berger, Chocolove and Richard H. Donnelly. Usually if no percentage is given, you can assume it is less than 60 percent, and often considerably less.

第十六段
Another indication of quality is naming the source of the cacao beans on the label. Valrhona offers chocolates from different regions and various blends, from the Caribbean and South America. Its Caraibe chocolate, for instance, is labeled pure Caribbean trinitario. As with wines or coffee, each delivers a different flavor profile.

第十七段
Once you unwrap chocolate, you can gauge it by eye: the best is flawlessly smooth, with a lustrous sheen. This quality applies not just to plain bars, but also to dipped or molded chocolate candies and truffles. Dull or grayish spots or streaks may be a sign of inferior quality, poor handling or bad storage conditions.

第十八段
You also judge chocolate by the way it breaks at room temperature. It should not crumble or splinter, but should have what is called ''snap,'' a clean brittleness. The milk solids added to milk chocolate soften the texture and prevent it from having the same snap as dark chocolate.

第十九段
The aroma should be rich and intense, even fruity, winy, spicy or with a hint of cedar or tobacco. You should not detect musty, charred or chemical smells.

第二十段
And let's face it, if you like chocolate, the proof is in the eating. The rich intensity of the chocolate should be balanced, but never overwhelmed, by sweetness. Nor should it be too bitter, although that's a matter of personal preference. If you're used to everyday chocolate, a high-octane blend might overwhelm your taste buds at first.

第二十一段
Then there's texture. Because chocolate melts at close to body temperature, it should start to melt in your mouth, with a smooth creaminess and nothing waxy, gritty, gummy or greasy about it.

第二十二段
Hints of spice or of fruit like berries or citrus often add complexity to the chocolate, as does a touch of nutty, licorice or caramel flavor. Some lively acidity, an attribute you might seek in good coffee or fine red wine, can also enhance chocolate. The aftertaste should linger pleasantly. Only by tasting, as often as possible, can you begin to fathom the variations from brand to brand and even among the styles offered by a single maker.

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