Cilantro Haters, It’s Not Your Fault

导读

在食物方面,人们通常没有必要表明自己的立场,但是,在面对香菜的时候,有一小部分人丝毫不掩饰他们的厌恶之情。就连在美国家喻户晓的烹饪电视明星Julia Child在2002年接受电视采访的时候都明确表示“她讨厌香菜和芝麻菜”,看来,精湛的厨艺也救不了香菜!

在权威著作《牛津食品指南中》提到,香菜一词来自希腊语臭虫这个单词,而香菜的气息竟然被描述成被臭虫玷污了的床单味儿,所以,除了葡萄牙之外的欧洲人是过不了这个坎儿的;而广大亚洲和拉丁美洲人民却吃得不亦乐乎!那么,究竟是什么让一些人对香菜如此生厌呢?

首先,有基因方面的原因,但是,到目前为止还没有系统的研究可以证实;其次,从历史的角度,香菜是原产于地中海东岸的,在中世纪以前,无论是香菜籽还是叶都用来入膳,但是,在欧洲人民走出中世纪的时候,香菜不幸地也被除了旧了!

到了现代,厌恶香菜的人群说它有肥皂味儿!气味化学家的发现是:香菜的香气主要来自大约六种醛类物质,而肥皂以及臭虫分泌的体液中含有相同或者类似的醛类物质;尽管如此,还是有很多人觉得香菜的气息鲜爽、宜人!为什么结论的差异如此大?

原来,这是人类进化的后遗症,我们需要通过对嗅觉和味觉的感知来觅食、寻伴,趋利避害!一旦遇到新的味觉和嗅觉体验,尤其是像香菜这样,和化学清洁剂、甚至是臭虫拥有类似气息的食物,人类的本能反应一定是唯恐避之而不及,根本不会给自己机会去考虑这种食物可能提供的美好滋味。好在人类的大脑在不断的扩充和升级中,只要你不放弃和香菜的接触,那些和香菜有关的美味以及和亲朋欢聚的美好瞬间都会留存在你的记忆中,久而久之你就开始喜欢吃香菜了,虽然还是有肥皂味儿,但是你会关注香菜的其它优点。

反之,如果你尝了一口就不再碰香菜,那么一切也就无从谈起了,你根本就没有机会重新塑造你对香菜的味觉感知。当然香菜也是挺配合这种重塑的,比如,日本的一项研究就发现挤压香菜的叶片会使得酶有机会把香菜中的醛类物质转变为无味儿的其它物质。作者的发现是香菜版的青酱味道温和而美好,对于意大利面、面包和肉类应该都适用,是个重塑香菜味觉感知的首选!

更多剧透

第一步:解决高频单词

primal ['praɪm(ə)l]

adj.原始的;最初的

sophistication [sə,fɪstɪ'keɪʃn]

n.复杂;老练

phobia ['fəʊbɪə] ['fəʊbɪə]

n.恐惧

be predisposed to/towards sth 

倾向于

genetics [dʒɪ'netɪks]

n.遗传学

fragment ['frægm(ə)nt]

n.碎片/v.(使)破碎

equivalent [ɪ'kwɪvələnt]

n.等价物/adj.等价的

Jekyll and Hyde  [,dʒekɪl ənd 'haɪd]

n.双重人格者

perceive [pə'siːv]

v.觉察;感知

critical ['krɪtɪk(ə)l]

adj.评论的;关键性的

60p

第二步:精读重点段落

(Tips: 双击文中单词可以查释义并加入你的生词本哦)

第七段
Some people may be genetically predisposed to dislike cilantro, according to often-cited studies by Charles J. Wysocki of the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia. But cilantrophobe genetics remain little known and aren’t under systematic investigation. Meanwhile, history, chemistry and neurology have been adding some valuable pieces to the puzzle.

  • predispose  vt.使倾向于
  • genetics  n.遗传学

第十七段
The senses of smell and taste evolved to evoke strong emotions, he explained, because they were critical to finding food and mates and avoiding poisons and predators. When we taste a food, the brain searches its memory to find a pattern from past experience that the flavor belongs to. Then it uses that pattern to create a perception of flavor, including an evaluation of its desirability.

  • critical  adj.评论的;关键性的
85p

第三步:攻克必学语法

强调句

It + is(was) + 被强调部分 + that + 句子其余部分
状语(介词短语、状语从句)
            名词性结构

强调介词短语
It was in Barcelona that I first met him.

强调状语从句
It was after he got what he had desired that he realized it was not so important.

强调名词短语
It is years of hard work that has made him what he is today.

强调主语从句
It is what you do rather than what you say that matters.

第六段
What is it about cilantro that makes it so unpleasant for people in cultures that don’t much use it?
It is ________ about cilantro that makes it so unpleasant for people in cultures that don’t much use it.

第十四段
Why is it only the evil, soapy side that shows up for cilantrophobes, and not the charming one?
It is ________ that only the evil, soapy side shows up for cilantrophobes, and not the charming one.

100p

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(Tips: 双击文中单词可以查释义并加入你的生词本哦)

第一段
FOOD partisanship doesn’t usually reach the same heights of animosity as the political variety, except in the case of the anti-cilantro party. The green parts of the plant that gives us coriander seeds seem to inspire a primal revulsion among an outspoken minority of eaters.

  • partisanship  n.党派性
  • animosity  n.憎恶,敌意
  • primal  adj.原始的
  • revulsion  n. 憎恶
  • outspoken  adj.直言不讳的

第二段
Culinary sophistication is no guarantee of immunity from cilantrophobia. In a television interview in 2002, Larry King asked Julia Child which foods she hated. She responded: “Cilantro and arugula I don’t like at all. They’re both green herbs, they have kind of a dead taste to me.”

  • sophistication  n.复杂;老练
  • cilantrophobia n.香菜恐惧症
  • arugula  n.芝麻菜

第三段
“So you would never order it?” Mr. King asked.

第四段
“Never,” she responded. “I would pick it out if I saw it and throw it on the floor.”

第五段
Ms. Child had plenty of company for her feelings about cilantro (arugula seems to be less offensive). The authoritative Oxford Companion to Food notes that the word “coriander” is said to derive from the Greek word for bedbug, that cilantro aroma “has been compared with the smell of bug-infested bedclothes” and that “Europeans often have difficulty in overcoming their initial aversion to this smell.” There’s an “I Hate Cilantro” Facebook page with hundreds of fans and an I Hate Cilantro blog.

  • bedbug  n.臭虫
  • aversion  n.厌恶

第六段
Yet cilantro is happily consumed by many millions of people around the world, particularly in Asia and Latin America. The Portuguese put fistfuls into soups. What is it about cilantro that makes it so unpleasant for people in cultures that don’t much use it?

  • fistful  n.一把

第七段
Some people may be genetically predisposed to dislike cilantro, according to often-cited studies by Charles J. Wysocki of the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia. But cilantrophobe genetics remain little known and aren’t under systematic investigation. Meanwhile, history, chemistry and neurology have been adding some valuable pieces to the puzzle.

  • genetically  adv.从基因方面
  • predispose  vt.使倾向于
  • neurology  n.神经病学

第八段
The coriander plant is native to the eastern Mediterranean, and European cooks used both seeds and leaves well into medieval times.

  • medieval  adj.中世纪的

第九段
Helen Leach, an anthropologist at the University of Otago in New Zealand, has traced unflattering remarks about cilantro flavor and the bug etymology — not endorsed by modern dictionaries — back to English garden books and French farming books from around 1600, when medieval dishes had fallen out of fashion. She suggests that cilantro was disparaged as part of a general effort to define the new European table against the flavors of the old.

  • unflattering  adj.不吸引人的
  • etymology  n.语源学
  • endorse  vt.背书;认可
  • disparage vt.蔑视;诽谤

第十段
Modern cilantrophobes tend to describe the offending flavor as soapy rather than buggy. I don’t hate cilantro, but it does sometimes remind me of hand lotion. Each of these associations turns out to make good chemical sense.

  • hand lotion  n.护手霜

第十一段
Flavor chemists have found that cilantro aroma is created by a half-dozen or so substances, and most of these are modified fragments of fat molecules called aldehydes. The same or similar aldehydes are also found in soaps and lotions and the bug family of insects.

  • aldehyde  n.醛

第十二段
Soaps are made by fragmenting fat molecules with strongly alkaline lye or its equivalent, and aldehydes are a byproduct of this process, as they are when oxygen in the air attacks the fats and oils in cosmetics. And many bugs make strong-smelling, aldehyde-rich body fluids to attract or repel other creatures.

  • alkaline lye  n.碱溶液
  • equivalent  adj.等价的/n.等价物
  • repel  vt.抵制;使厌恶

第十三段
The published studies of cilantro aroma describe individual aldehydes as having both cilantrolike and soapy qualities. Several flavor chemists told me in e-mail messages that they smell a soapy note in the whole herb as well, but still find its aroma fresh and pleasant.

第十四段
So the cilantro aldehydes are olfactory Jekyll-and-Hydes. Why is it only the evil, soapy side that shows up for cilantrophobes, and not the charming one?

  • olfactory  adj.嗅觉的
  • Jekyll-and-Hyde  n.双重人格者

第十五段
I posed this question to Jay Gottfried, a neuroscientist at Northwestern University who studies how the brain perceives smells.

  • neuroscientist  n.神经系统科学家
  • perceive  v.觉察;感知

第十六段
Dr. Gottfried turned out to be a former cilantrophobe who could speak from personal experience. He said that the great cilantro split probably reflects the primal importance of smell and taste to survival, and the brain’s constant updating of its database of experiences.

  • split  n.裂缝;分歧

第十七段
The senses of smell and taste evolved to evoke strong emotions, he explained, because they were critical to finding food and mates and avoiding poisons and predators. When we taste a food, the brain searches its memory to find a pattern from past experience that the flavor belongs to. Then it uses that pattern to create a perception of flavor, including an evaluation of its desirability.

  • evolve  v.进化
  • evoke  vt.引起,唤起
  • critical  adj.评论的;关键性的
  • predator  n.捕食者

第十八段
If the flavor doesn’t fit a familiar food experience, and instead fits into a pattern that involves chemical cleaning agents and dirt, or crawly insects, then the brain highlights the mismatch and the potential threat to our safety. We react strongly and throw the offending ingredient on the floor where it belongs.

  • cleaning agent  n.清洁剂
  • crawly  adj.令人毛骨悚然的
  • highlight  vt.突出;强调

第十九段
“When your brain detects a potential threat, it narrows your attention,” Dr. Gottfried told me in a telephone conversation. “You don’t need to know that a dangerous food has a hint of asparagus and sorrel to it. You just get it away from your mouth.”

  • asparagus  n.芦笋
  • sorrel  n.酸模

第二十段
But he explained that every new experience causes the brain to update and enlarge its set of patterns, and this can lead to a shift in how we perceive a food.

  • shift  n.变化/v.移动;转变

第二十一段
“I didn’t like cilantro to begin with,” he said. “But I love food, and I ate all kinds of things, and I kept encountering it. My brain must have developed new patterns for cilantro flavor from those experiences, which included pleasure from the other flavors and the sharing with friends and family. That’s how people in cilantro-eating countries experience it every day.”

  • encounter  v.遇见

第二十二段
“So I began to like cilantro,” he said. “It can still remind me of soap, but it’s not threatening anymore, so that association fades into the background, and I enjoy its other qualities. On the other hand, if I ate cilantro once and never willingly let it pass my lips again, there wouldn’t have been a chance to reshape that perception.”

  • fade  v.褪色

第二十三段
Cilantro itself can be reshaped to make it easier to take. A Japanese study published in January suggested that crushing the leaves will give leaf enzymes the chance to gradually convert the aldehydes into other substances with no aroma.

  • crush  v.挤;压碎
  • convert  v.转变

第二十四段
Sure enough, I’ve found cilantro pestos to be lotion-free and surprisingly mild. They actually have deeper roots in the Mediterranean than the basil version, and can be delicious on pasta and breads and meats. If you’re looking to work on your cilantro patterns, pesto might be the place to start.

  • pesto  n.青酱
200p

primal ['praɪm(ə)l]

adj.原始的;最初的

sophistication [sə,fɪstɪ'keɪʃn]

n.复杂;老练

phobia ['fəʊbɪə] ['fəʊbɪə]

n.恐惧

be predisposed to/towards sth 

倾向于

genetics [dʒɪ'netɪks]

n.遗传学

fragment ['frægm(ə)nt]

n.碎片/v.(使)破碎

equivalent [ɪ'kwɪvələnt]

n.等价物/adj.等价的

Jekyll and Hyde  [,dʒekɪl ənd 'haɪd]

n.双重人格者

perceive [pə'siːv]

v.觉察;感知

critical ['krɪtɪk(ə)l]

adj.评论的;关键性的

不要一时兴起,就要天天在一起

明天见!


下载音频

Cilantro Haters, It’s Not Your Fault

第一段
FOOD partisanship doesn’t usually reach the same heights of animosity as the political variety, except in the case of the anti-cilantro party. The green parts of the plant that gives us coriander seeds seem to inspire a primal revulsion among an outspoken minority of eaters.

第二段
Culinary sophistication is no guarantee of immunity from cilantrophobia. In a television interview in 2002, Larry King asked Julia Child which foods she hated. She responded: “Cilantro and arugula I don’t like at all. They’re both green herbs, they have kind of a dead taste to me.”

第三段
“So you would never order it?” Mr. King asked.

第四段
“Never,” she responded. “I would pick it out if I saw it and throw it on the floor.”

第五段
Ms. Child had plenty of company for her feelings about cilantro (arugula seems to be less offensive). The authoritative Oxford Companion to Food notes that the word “coriander” is said to derive from the Greek word for bedbug, that cilantro aroma “has been compared with the smell of bug-infested bedclothes” and that “Europeans often have difficulty in overcoming their initial aversion to this smell.” There’s an “I Hate Cilantro” Facebook page with hundreds of fans and an I Hate Cilantro blog.

第六段
Yet cilantro is happily consumed by many millions of people around the world, particularly in Asia and Latin America. The Portuguese put fistfuls into soups. What is it about cilantro that makes it so unpleasant for people in cultures that don’t much use it?

第七段
Some people may be genetically predisposed to dislike cilantro, according to often-cited studies by Charles J. Wysocki of the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia. But cilantrophobe genetics remain little known and aren’t under systematic investigation. Meanwhile, history, chemistry and neurology have been adding some valuable pieces to the puzzle.

第八段
The coriander plant is native to the eastern Mediterranean, and European cooks used both seeds and leaves well into medieval times.

第九段
Helen Leach, an anthropologist at the University of Otago in New Zealand, has traced unflattering remarks about cilantro flavor and the bug etymology — not endorsed by modern dictionaries — back to English garden books and French farming books from around 1600, when medieval dishes had fallen out of fashion. She suggests that cilantro was disparaged as part of a general effort to define the new European table against the flavors of the old.

第十段
Modern cilantrophobes tend to describe the offending flavor as soapy rather than buggy. I don’t hate cilantro, but it does sometimes remind me of hand lotion. Each of these associations turns out to make good chemical sense.

第十一段
Flavor chemists have found that cilantro aroma is created by a half-dozen or so substances, and most of these are modified fragments of fat molecules called aldehydes. The same or similar aldehydes are also found in soaps and lotions and the bug family of insects.

第十二段
Soaps are made by fragmenting fat molecules with strongly alkaline lye or its equivalent, and aldehydes are a byproduct of this process, as they are when oxygen in the air attacks the fats and oils in cosmetics. And many bugs make strong-smelling, aldehyde-rich body fluids to attract or repel other creatures.

第十三段
The published studies of cilantro aroma describe individual aldehydes as having both cilantrolike and soapy qualities. Several flavor chemists told me in e-mail messages that they smell a soapy note in the whole herb as well, but still find its aroma fresh and pleasant.

第十四段
So the cilantro aldehydes are olfactory Jekyll-and-Hydes. Why is it only the evil, soapy side that shows up for cilantrophobes, and not the charming one?

第十五段
I posed this question to Jay Gottfried, a neuroscientist at Northwestern University who studies how the brain perceives smells.

第十六段
Dr. Gottfried turned out to be a former cilantrophobe who could speak from personal experience. He said that the great cilantro split probably reflects the primal importance of smell and taste to survival, and the brain’s constant updating of its database of experiences.

第十七段
The senses of smell and taste evolved to evoke strong emotions, he explained, because they were critical to finding food and mates and avoiding poisons and predators. When we taste a food, the brain searches its memory to find a pattern from past experience that the flavor belongs to. Then it uses that pattern to create a perception of flavor, including an evaluation of its desirability.

第十八段
If the flavor doesn’t fit a familiar food experience, and instead fits into a pattern that involves chemical cleaning agents and dirt, or crawly insects, then the brain highlights the mismatch and the potential threat to our safety. We react strongly and throw the offending ingredient on the floor where it belongs.

第十九段
“When your brain detects a potential threat, it narrows your attention,” Dr. Gottfried told me in a telephone conversation. “You don’t need to know that a dangerous food has a hint of asparagus and sorrel to it. You just get it away from your mouth.”

第二十段
But he explained that every new experience causes the brain to update and enlarge its set of patterns, and this can lead to a shift in how we perceive a food.

第二十一段
“I didn’t like cilantro to begin with,” he said. “But I love food, and I ate all kinds of things, and I kept encountering it. My brain must have developed new patterns for cilantro flavor from those experiences, which included pleasure from the other flavors and the sharing with friends and family. That’s how people in cilantro-eating countries experience it every day.”

第二十二段
“So I began to like cilantro,” he said. “It can still remind me of soap, but it’s not threatening anymore, so that association fades into the background, and I enjoy its other qualities. On the other hand, if I ate cilantro once and never willingly let it pass my lips again, there wouldn’t have been a chance to reshape that perception.”

第二十三段
Cilantro itself can be reshaped to make it easier to take. A Japanese study published in January suggested that crushing the leaves will give leaf enzymes the chance to gradually convert the aldehydes into other substances with no aroma.

第二十四段
Sure enough, I’ve found cilantro pestos to be lotion-free and surprisingly mild. They actually have deeper roots in the Mediterranean than the basil version, and can be delicious on pasta and breads and meats. If you’re looking to work on your cilantro patterns, pesto might be the place to start.

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