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原文:
茶和咖啡：冰镇还是冷泡？
夏天来了，我们都需要喝些冷饮！如何把茶和咖啡这两种通常的热饮打造成讨人喜欢的冷饮呢？本文作者结合科学原理，对比了冰镇和冷泡这两种方式，最终做出了自己的选择，我们也来参与一下吧！
[1] ICED coffees and teas should be some of summer’s simplest pleasures, especially when we just steep them in cold tap water, with no kitchen heat and next to no effort. But if you make even a desultory search for advice on cold brewing, you may find yourself mopping your brow deciding how, and even whether, to proceed.
[2] Ratios of tea or coffee to water differ wildly from recipe to recipe; brewing times can be minutes or hours. And while some respected coffee authorities praise the virtues of cold-brewed coffee, others say it’s just not as good as brewing a fresh hot cup right onto the ice.
[3] I’ve found it calming to take a leaf from China and Japan, where one batch of tea is briefly infused as many as seven or eight times and each infusion enjoyed for its particular qualities. Variety can be just as pleasing as consistency, and it can be a way to discover new sides of our most familiar ingredients.
[4] When we brew coffee or tea, we’re doing a very basic thing: bringing plain water into contact with dried plant materials to imbue the water with flavor, color and various active substances, like caffeine and antioxidant polyphenols. It is a basic process, but not a simple one.
[5] As water moves into the coffee particles or tea leaves, it dissolves or suspends hundreds of different substances and extracts them from the solids. If the water is hot, it extracts more rapidly and completely. Hot water also cooks as it extracts, forcing chemical reactions that transform some of the extracted substances into other things, and driving some aroma substances out of the liquid. Cold water, in contrast, extracts more slowly and selectively, produces a simpler extract, and doesn’t change the original flavor substances as much.
[6] So cold-brewed teas and coffees are chemically different from their hot counterparts. They tend to contain less caffeine and less acid. And, of course, they taste different. If the flavor of hot tea or coffee is your gold standard, then cold brews won’t measure up. If you think of hot and cold brews as different drinks, just as a lager isn’t the same as a pale ale, then you may find that you enjoy both.
[7] There are a variety of specialized devices for cold-brewing coffee, including showy ones that pass water very slowly through the grounds, drop by drop, and plain functional ones in which the coffee is left to infuse in all the water overnight, then the brew drained from the grounds. The best known of these, the Toddy, is a plastic container with a thick feltlike pad that fits over a stoppered hole in its bottom. When the stopper is removed, the liquid drains through the mass of grounds and the pad, which filter out tiny coffee particles, letting a dark yet clear coffee concentrate drain into a pitcher. The concentrate can be diluted with either cold or hot water for a quick drink. Because it’s quadruple-strength, it is also handy in cooking, to flavor things like ices and ice creams.
[8] You can improvise a cold-brewing system using a French-press pot or just a pitcher or bowl, with fine sieves, cheesecloth, or cloth or paper filters to strain out the grounds. Infuse coarsely ground coffee overnight in cold water, about 5 cups for every 1/2-pound of coffee, then press or filter the brew from the grounds. In my experience this can become tedious because fine particles clog the filters. And if you leave particles in the brew, they cloud it and give it a rougher body.
[9] Cold-brewed coffee is controversial. To summarize the substance of many recent interviews and blog posts: advocates praise its low acidity and lack of bitterness, and its intense but smooth flavor. Detractors find it lacking in aroma and body and say they get more of both by starting with a double-strength hot pour-over or French press. The pour-over, or a Chemex brew, can be made directly over ice cubes, the French press coffee added immediately to ice. With each, the ice melts and dilutes the coffee to an appropriate drinking strength. Some automatic coffee makers now offer settings and pre-measured coffee doses for brewing strong coffee onto ice.
[10] The hot-brew argument sounded convincing to me, and I’d be happy not to need any special kit or forethought. But when I compared a 12-hour cold brew of freshly roasted Ethiopian coffee side by side with double-strength pour-overs brewed onto ice, each was good, and it was the cold brew that consistently tasted fruitier and more refreshing. That experiment made me a fan of cold-brewed coffee. It’s certainly worth trying. Both are an improvement over simply brewing hot coffee and chilling it for hours in the refrigerator, which gives a cloudy, less flavorful drink on its own, one that benefits from mixing with milk or cream and sugar.
[11] When it comes to tea, there’s less controversy and more flexibility. The standard proportions for American iced tea are about 4 teaspoons or 2-gram bags per quart, with a brewing time of 8 to 12 hours. In Taiwan, where cold-brewed tea has become increasingly popular in recent years and spurred studies of its chemistry, about twice that ratio of tea to water is used for a similarly long infusion. And one purveyor of fine Japanese teas in Kyoto recommends making small cups of cold sencha with 5 times that ratio, infusing first for 15 minutes, then for briefer times. The first couple of infusions are like no other version of green tea I’ve had, intensely grassy and bitter, with subsequent brews progressively milder and more refreshing.
[12] Since cold infusion is a relatively slow and gentle process, proportions and times aren’t critical. There’s plenty of leeway for both. As a general rule, the more fragile the tea leaves, or the smaller the particles, the less tea and time you need to get a strong brew. If a cold brew infuses too slowly, just add more tea.
[13] Two of my favorite cold-brewed teas come from Maricel Presilla, who serves a number of them at her Latin restaurant Zafra in Hoboken, N.J. One perennial on her list is a mojito iced tea, in which oolong tea scented with osmanthus flowers, or with a sliced peach and its pit, suggests the sweet aroma of white rum.
[14] Ms. Presilla also makes an unadorned agua fresca de jamaica, the tart, deep-red sepals that surround the flower of a particular species of hibiscus.
[15] “Nothing compares to the bright color and flavor of the cold-infused drink,” she wrote in an e-mail. “It can steep for as little as two hours and needs nothing but some sugar, though you can include spices like cinnamon, allspice or star anise for a subtle but nice flavor.”
[16] I like to use allspice and then muddle some fresh basil in the infusion just before serving.
[17] Jamaica (pronounced ha-MY-ka) is especially rich in antioxidant polyphenolic compounds, including its anthocyanin pigments, and food chemists are investigating its potential as a nonalcoholic alternative to red wine. They have found that a two-hour cold infusion extracts as much of the pigments as a standard hot infusion, and that the flavor is fruitier and less marked by green-leaf, clove and cooked aromas.
[18] Less heat may mean less flavor in coffees and teas, but not necessarily less pleasure.
pleasure noun [ C or U ]
enjoyment, happiness or satisfaction, or something that gives this
His visits gave his grandparents such pleasure.
[ + to infinitive ] It was such a pleasure to meet you.
He wrote an article on the pleasures and pains of camping.
Smoking is one of my few pleasures.
steep /stiːp/ verb [ I or T ]
to cause to stay in a liquid, especially in order to become soft or clean, or to improve flavour
Leave the cloth to steep in the dye overnight.
We had pears steeped in red wine for dessert.
next to
almost
They pay me next to nothing (= very little) but I really enjoy the work.
It's next to impossible (= extremely difficult) to find somewhere cheap to live in the city centre.
desultory /ˈdes. ə l.t ə r.i/ adj formal
without a clear plan or purpose and showing little effort or interest
She made a desultory attempt at conversation.
He wandered around, clearing up in a desultory way.
mop /mɒp/ verb [ T ] -pp-
to use a mop to wash something
He mopped the bathroom floor.
to use a cloth to remove sweat from the face
He kept pausing to mop his brow.
ratio /ˈreɪ.ʃi.əʊ/ noun [ C ] plural ratios
the relationship between two groups or amounts, which expresses how much bigger one is than the other
The ratio of men to women at the conference was ten to one/10:1.
The school is trying to improve its pupil-teacher ratio (= the number of teachers compared with the number of students).
wildly /ˈwaɪld.li/ adv
in an uncontrolled or extreme way
He was dancing wildly.
It was wildly (= very) expensive.
I must say I'm not wildly (= very) keen on the idea.
batch /bætʃ/ noun [ C ]
a group of things or people dealt with at the same time or considered similar in type
The cook brought in a fresh batch of homemade cakes.
We looked at the job applications in two batches.
infuse /ɪnˈfjuːz/ verb
[ I or T ] If you infuse a drink or it infuses, you leave substances such as tea leaves or herbs in hot water so that their flavour goes into the liquid
Allow the tea to infuse for five minutes.
brew /bruː/ verb
[ I or T ] If you brew tea or coffee, you add boiling water to it to make a hot drink, and if it brews, it gradually develops flavour in the container in which it was made
[ + two objects ] He brewed us some coffee./He brewed some coffee for us.
imbue /ɪmˈbjuː/ verb
imbue sth/sb with sth phrasal verb formal
to fill something or someone with a particular feeling, quality or idea
His poetry is imbued with deep, religious feeling.
caffeine /ˈkæf.iːn/ noun [ U ] 咖啡因
polyphenols多元酚
particle /ˈpɑː.tɪ.kl ̩/ noun
[ C ] an extremely small piece of matter
Dust particles must have got into the motor.
Electrons are atomic particles.
dissolve /dɪˈzɒlv/ verb
[ I or T ] (of a solid) to be absorbed by a liquid, especially when mixed, or (of a liquid) to absorb a solid
Dissolve two spoons of powder in warm water.
Nitric acid will dissolve most animal tissue.
suspend /səˈspend/ verb
[ T usually + adverb or preposition ] If small pieces of solid material are suspended in a gas or a liquid, they hang or float in the gas or liquid
The drug is suspended in a saline solution.
A cloud of smoke was suspended in the air.
extract /ɪkˈstrækt/ verb [ T ]
to remove or take out something
They used to extract iron ore from this site.
The oil which is extracted from olives is used for cooking.
The tooth was eventually extracted.
extract /ˈek.strækt/ noun
[ C or U ] a substance taken from a plant, flower, etc. and used especially in food or medicine
malt/yeast extract
The cream contained extracts of/from several plants.
counterpart /ˈkaʊn.tə.pɑːt/ noun [ C ]
a person or thing which has the same purpose as another one in a different place or organization
gold ˌ standard noun [ S ]
something which is very good and is used for measuring how good other similar things are
measure up phrasal verb
to be good enough, or as good as someone or something else
She could never measure up to her mother's expectations.
handy /ˈhæn.di/ adj
useful or convenient
a handy container/tool
First-time visitors to France will find this guide particularly handy.
It's a nice house and it's handy for (= near) the station.
improvise /ˈɪm.prə.vaɪz/ verb [ I or T ]
to invent or make something, such as a speech or a device, at the time when it is needed without already having planned it
I hadn't prepared a speech so I suddenly had to improvise.
tedious /ˈtiː.di.əs/ adj
boring
a tedious job
The trouble is I find most forms of exercise so tedious.
clog /klɒg/ verb [ I or T ] -gg-
to (cause something to) become blocked or filled so that movement or activity is difficult
The roads are clogged with holiday traffic.
Eating too much fat causes your arteries to clog (up) .
Leaves are clogging (up) the drain.
cloud /klaʊd/ verb
[ I or T ] If something transparent clouds, or if something clouds it, it becomes difficult to see through.
controversial /ˌkɒn.trəˈvɜː.ʃ ə l/ adj
causing disagreement or discussion
a controversial issue/decision/speech/figure
The book was very controversial.
detractor /dɪˈtræk.tə r / noun [ C ]
someone who criticizes something or someone, often unfairly
His detractors claim that his fierce temper makes him unsuitable for party leadership.
spur /spɜː r / verb [ T ] -rr-
to encourage an activity or development or make it happen faster
Rising consumer sales have the effect of spurring the economy to faster growth.
Spurred (on) by her early success, she went on to write four more novels in rapid succession.
leeway /ˈliː.weɪ/ noun [ U ]
freedom to act within particular limits
Local councils will be given some leeway as to how they implement the legislation.
perennial /pəˈren.i.əl/ adj
lasting a very long time, or happening repeatedly or all the time
The film 'White Christmas' is a perennial favourite.
We face the perennial problem of not having enough money.
osmanthus flowers 桂花
sepal /ˈsep.əl/ noun [ C ] specialized (花的)萼片
one of the parts that form the outer part of a flower, which surrounds the petals and are usually small and green
hibiscus /hɪˈbɪs.kəs/ noun [ C ] 洛神花
a tropical plant or bush with large brightly coloured flowers
anthocyanin 花青素
原文:
茶和咖啡：冰镇还是冷泡？
夏天来了，我们都需要喝些冷饮！如何把茶和咖啡这两种通常的热饮打造成讨人喜欢的冷饮呢？本文作者结合科学原理，对比了冰镇和冷泡这两种方式，最终做出了自己的选择，我们也来参与一下吧！
[1] ICED coffees and teas should be some of summer’s simplest pleasures, especially when we just steep them in cold tap water, with no kitchen heat and next to no effort. But if you make even a desultory search for advice on cold brewing, you may find yourself mopping your brow deciding how, and even whether, to proceed.
[2] Ratios of tea or coffee to water differ wildly from recipe to recipe; brewing times can be minutes or hours. And while some respected coffee authorities praise the virtues of cold-brewed coffee, others say it’s just not as good as brewing a fresh hot cup right onto the ice.
[3] I’ve found it calming to take a leaf from China and Japan, where one batch of tea is briefly infused as many as seven or eight times and each infusion enjoyed for its particular qualities. Variety can be just as pleasing as consistency, and it can be a way to discover new sides of our most familiar ingredients.
[4] When we brew coffee or tea, we’re doing a very basic thing: bringing plain water into contact with dried plant materials to imbue the water with flavor, color and various active substances, like caffeine and antioxidant polyphenols. It is a basic process, but not a simple one.
[5] As water moves into the coffee particles or tea leaves, it dissolves or suspends hundreds of different substances and extracts them from the solids. If the water is hot, it extracts more rapidly and completely. Hot water also cooks as it extracts, forcing chemical reactions that transform some of the extracted substances into other things, and driving some aroma substances out of the liquid. Cold water, in contrast, extracts more slowly and selectively, produces a simpler extract, and doesn’t change the original flavor substances as much.
[6] So cold-brewed teas and coffees are chemically different from their hot counterparts. They tend to contain less caffeine and less acid. And, of course, they taste different. If the flavor of hot tea or coffee is your gold standard, then cold brews won’t measure up. If you think of hot and cold brews as different drinks, just as a lager isn’t the same as a pale ale, then you may find that you enjoy both.
[7] There are a variety of specialized devices for cold-brewing coffee, including showy ones that pass water very slowly through the grounds, drop by drop, and plain functional ones in which the coffee is left to infuse in all the water overnight, then the brew drained from the grounds. The best known of these, the Toddy, is a plastic container with a thick feltlike pad that fits over a stoppered hole in its bottom. When the stopper is removed, the liquid drains through the mass of grounds and the pad, which filter out tiny coffee particles, letting a dark yet clear coffee concentrate drain into a pitcher. The concentrate can be diluted with either cold or hot water for a quick drink. Because it’s quadruple-strength, it is also handy in cooking, to flavor things like ices and ice creams.
[8] You can improvise a cold-brewing system using a French-press pot or just a pitcher or bowl, with fine sieves, cheesecloth, or cloth or paper filters to strain out the grounds. Infuse coarsely ground coffee overnight in cold water, about 5 cups for every 1/2-pound of coffee, then press or filter the brew from the grounds. In my experience this can become tedious because fine particles clog the filters. And if you leave particles in the brew, they cloud it and give it a rougher body.
[9] Cold-brewed coffee is controversial. To summarize the substance of many recent interviews and blog posts: advocates praise its low acidity and lack of bitterness, and its intense but smooth flavor. Detractors find it lacking in aroma and body and say they get more of both by starting with a double-strength hot pour-over or French press. The pour-over, or a Chemex brew, can be made directly over ice cubes, the French press coffee added immediately to ice. With each, the ice melts and dilutes the coffee to an appropriate drinking strength. Some automatic coffee makers now offer settings and pre-measured coffee doses for brewing strong coffee onto ice.
[10] The hot-brew argument sounded convincing to me, and I’d be happy not to need any special kit or forethought. But when I compared a 12-hour cold brew of freshly roasted Ethiopian coffee side by side with double-strength pour-overs brewed onto ice, each was good, and it was the cold brew that consistently tasted fruitier and more refreshing. That experiment made me a fan of cold-brewed coffee. It’s certainly worth trying. Both are an improvement over simply brewing hot coffee and chilling it for hours in the refrigerator, which gives a cloudy, less flavorful drink on its own, one that benefits from mixing with milk or cream and sugar.
[11] When it comes to tea, there’s less controversy and more flexibility. The standard proportions for American iced tea are about 4 teaspoons or 2-gram bags per quart, with a brewing time of 8 to 12 hours. In Taiwan, where cold-brewed tea has become increasingly popular in recent years and spurred studies of its chemistry, about twice that ratio of tea to water is used for a similarly long infusion. And one purveyor of fine Japanese teas in Kyoto recommends making small cups of cold sencha with 5 times that ratio, infusing first for 15 minutes, then for briefer times. The first couple of infusions are like no other version of green tea I’ve had, intensely grassy and bitter, with subsequent brews progressively milder and more refreshing.
[12] Since cold infusion is a relatively slow and gentle process, proportions and times aren’t critical. There’s plenty of leeway for both. As a general rule, the more fragile the tea leaves, or the smaller the particles, the less tea and time you need to get a strong brew. If a cold brew infuses too slowly, just add more tea.
[13] Two of my favorite cold-brewed teas come from Maricel Presilla, who serves a number of them at her Latin restaurant Zafra in Hoboken, N.J. One perennial on her list is a mojito iced tea, in which oolong tea scented with osmanthus flowers, or with a sliced peach and its pit, suggests the sweet aroma of white rum.
[14] Ms. Presilla also makes an unadorned agua fresca de jamaica, the tart, deep-red sepals that surround the flower of a particular species of hibiscus.
[15] “Nothing compares to the bright color and flavor of the cold-infused drink,” she wrote in an e-mail. “It can steep for as little as two hours and needs nothing but some sugar, though you can include spices like cinnamon, allspice or star anise for a subtle but nice flavor.”
[16] I like to use allspice and then muddle some fresh basil in the infusion just before serving.
[17] Jamaica (pronounced ha-MY-ka) is especially rich in antioxidant polyphenolic compounds, including its anthocyanin pigments, and food chemists are investigating its potential as a nonalcoholic alternative to red wine. They have found that a two-hour cold infusion extracts as much of the pigments as a standard hot infusion, and that the flavor is fruitier and less marked by green-leaf, clove and cooked aromas.
[18] Less heat may mean less flavor in coffees and teas, but not necessarily less pleasure.