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原文:
这是一场发生在十年前，西班牙顶级厨师之间的撕逼战！我们究竟是要回归食物的本味，还是诉诸分子料理不断挑战人们对食物的认识，直到现在仍旧是个问题！
[1] MADRID — With inventions like parmesan snow, chilled sauces that “boil” with dry ice and green olives made of “spherified” juice, Spain’s avant-garde chefs have created an international buzz for a national cuisine that was long considered an also-ran. Gazpacho and paella were just no match for the specialties of French and Italian cuisine.
[2] But dozens of restaurants around the country now rate a star from the revered Michelin guide. (Six currently hold its top honor: three stars.) Spanish chefs grace the pages of international gastronomic magazines, and some food critics believe they have replaced their French counterparts at the vanguard of culinary innovation.
[3] Such acclaim is just one more cause for celebration in a country that has experienced a decade-long economic boom and gained a reputation as a center of fine wine and cutting-edge architecture as well as food. But after several years in the spotlight, Spain’s uncommonly collegial top chefs have done the unthinkable, or perhaps the inevitable. They have turned on each other.
[4] Santi Santamaría, one of the country’s most prominent chefs, has directed bruising public attacks at his avant-garde counterparts, accusing them of producing pretentious food they would not eat themselves — and potentially poisoning diners with chemicals that he says have no place in the kitchen.
[5] “Some chefs are offering a media spectacle rather than concerning themselves with healthy eating,” Mr. Santamaría said as he accepted a recent prize for his new book, “La Cocina al Desnudo” (“The Kitchen Laid Bare”). In it, the burly, outspoken chef, who trumpets his own dedication to natural ingredients, assails the proliferation of junk food culture — and once again takes on the effete creations of the Spanish avant-garde kitchen.
[6] “We have to decide, as chefs, if we want to continue to use the fresh products of our Mediterranean diet or opt for using additives,” he told journalists in Madrid on Monday, when he repeated a call for the Spanish authorities to investigate restaurants’ use of, for example, liquid nitrogen, for instant freezing, and methyl cellulose, a gelling agent.
[7] This is not Mr. Santamaría’s first attack on high-tech cuisine. Last year, he shocked Spanish chefs at Madrid Fusión, an annual conference, when he accused them of cooking for snobs.
[8] But this time Mr. Santamaría got personal. He singled out Ferran Adrià, godfather of the Spanish (and global) avant-garde movement and the country’s most celebrated chef, for criticism. Despite his “enormous respect” for Mr. Adrià, he said he felt “a huge divorce, both ethical and conceptual with Ferran, who I feel is headed in a direction that is contrary to my principles.”
[9] Mr. Santamaría’s comments stung chefs whose success turns on the wit and wonder evoked by outlandish dishes and opened the door to debate about technology versus tradition in a culinary scene that has acquired baffling monikers like “deconstructivist” and “techno-emotional.”
[10] Mr. Adrià and other chefs dismissed Mr. Santamaría’s latest round of criticism as ridiculous, arguing that many of the products they use are natural and those that are not, are harmless. A spokesman for the Spanish Food Safety Agency said all additives used in Spanish restaurants complied with European Union standards.
[11] Methyl cellulose, used by Mr. Adrià to create, among other things, magenta films of “hibiscus paper” is not dangerous, he said. He also noted that liquid nitrogen was not ingested.
[12] In a recent statement, the Spanish Euro-Toques Association, which represents some 800 Spanish chefs, said Mr. Santamaría’s comments “damaged the prestige Spain has earned at a world level thanks, in part, to its cuisine and chefs.”
[13] “This has been a terrible couple of weeks for us chefs,” Mr. Adrià said by telephone on Saturday from France. His restaurant, el Bulli, in northeastern Spain has three Michelin stars. “Everything that Santi has said about our ingredients is untrue, but it is damaging.”
[14] In a recent telephone interview, Mr. Santamaría said that he felt dutybound to raise public awareness of techniques and ingredients that had catapulted Spanish cuisine to fame but were at odds, in his view, with Spanish traditions and a dedication to local and organic produce.
[15] “How can we, the defenders of natural, local products, include unnatural products in our cooking?” said Mr. Santamaría, who was speaking from Sant Celoni in northeastern Spain, home to his three-star restaurant, Can Fabes.
[16] Andoni Aduriz, a protégé of Mr. Adrià, said Mr. Santamaría was simply trying to scare people.
[17] “Santi is the Hugo Chávez of gastronomy,” Mr. Aduriz said. “He loves to spark controversy with his populist talk.” Mr. Aduriz, who forages in the local countryside for nettles and unusual herbs, said he saw no conflict between a respect for natural produce and high-tech kitchen methods.
[18] “It’s a false debate,” he said. “Santi is seeking the recognition that has eluded him professionally by creating a polemic,” he added, suggesting that despite Mr. Santamaría’s successes, he might crave Mr. Adrià’s fame. Slow Food Spain, part of a global movement that advocates organic produce, said in a statement last week that “innovation and tradition are not antithetical.”
[19] Still, Mr. Santamaría’s claims resonate for some. In a letter to the Spanish newspaper El País, one reader, Jorge Gutiérrez Berlinches, said Mr. Santamaría represented “all of us who like pasta with tomato, a nice plate of potatoes, a fried egg and blood sausage.”
[20] “We need to return to simple things, what’s natural and what tastes good and what is affordable,” he wrote.
[21] Dan Barber, chef of Blue Hill in New York, said that the dispute was reminiscent of the storm over nouvelle cuisine in France in the 1970s and a more recent, nationalist debate over the use of non-French ingredients in haute cuisine. Mr. Barber, an advocate of organic, local ingredients who is an admirer of Mr. Adrià, said the controversy bore testimony to how mature the Spanish culinary movement had become.
[22] “The fact that this debate is taking place is a sign of how far Spain has come — and that is a credit to both Santi and Ferran,” Mr. Barber said. “Any kind of discussion about what goes into our food is a good thing. Whether this was the best way to go about it, is another question.”
clash /klæʃ/ verb
[ I usually + adverb or preposition ] to fight or argue
Students clashed with police after demonstrations at five universities.
The government and the opposition parties have clashed over the cuts in defence spending.
avant-garde /ˌæv.ɑ͂ːˈgɑːd/ adj
describes creative ideas, styles and methods that are very original or modern in comparison to the period in which they happen; belonging or relating to the avantgarde
avant-garde art/cinema/painting
It was one of the first avant-garde works to appeal to a wide audience.
buzz /bʌz/ noun [ S ]
a continuous low sound
I heard a buzz and then saw the plane in the distance.
also-ran /ˈɔːl.səʊ.ræn/ noun [ C ]
someone in a competition who is unlikely to do well or who has failed
be no match for sth/sb
to be less powerful or effective than someone or something else
Gibson ran well but was no match for the young Italian.
specialty /ˈspeʃ. ə l.ti/ noun [ C ]
UK ( US specialty ) a product that is extremely good in a particular place
Oysters are a local speciality/a speciality of the area.
Paella is a speciality of the house (= a food that is unusually good in a particular restaurant).
revere /rɪˈvɪə r / verb [ T ] formal
to very much respect and admire someone or something
Nelson Mandela is revered for his brave fight against apartheid.
grace /greɪs/ verb [ T ]
When a person or thing graces a place or thing, they make it more attractive
Her face has graced the covers of magazines across the world.
counterpart /ˈkaʊn.tə.pɑːt/ noun [ C ]
a person or thing which has the same purpose as another one in a different place or organization
The Prime Minister is to meet his European counterparts to discuss the war against drugs.
the vanguard /ðəˈvæŋ.gɑːd/ noun [ S ]
a group of people who lead the development of new ideas, or a leading position in the development of something
He is in the vanguard of economic reform.
acclaim /əˈkleɪm/ noun [ U ]
public approval and praise
Despite the critical acclaim, the novel did not sell well.
boom /buːm/ noun
[ C or U ] a period of sudden economic growth, especially one that results in a lot of money being made
This year has seen a boom in book sales.
The insurance business suffered from a vicious cycle of boom and bust.
cutting-edge /ˌkʌt.ɪŋˈedʒ/ adj [ before noun ]
very modern and with all the newest features
cutting-edge design/technology
uncommonly /ʌnˈkɒm.ən.li/ adv old-fashioned formal
extremely
She was uncommonly brave too.
collegial /kəˈliːdʒiəl/ adj 学院派的
turn on sb phrasal verb
to attack or criticize someone suddenly and unexpectedly
Suddenly she just turned on me and accused me of undermining her.
bruising /ˈbruː.zɪŋ/ adj
A bruising experience is one in which someone defeats you or is very rude to you
I had a bruising encounter with my ex-husband last week.
accuse /əˈkjuːz/ verb [ T ]
to say that someone has done something morally wrong, illegal or unkind
"It wasn't my fault." "Don't worry, I'm not accusing you."
He's been accused of robbery/murder.
Are you accusing me of lying ?
pretentious /prɪˈten t .ʃəs/ adj disapproving
trying to appear or sound more important or clever than you are, especially in matters of art and literature
a pretentious art critic
The novel deals with grand themes, but is never heavy or pretentious.
burly /ˈbɜː.li/ adj
describes a man who is large and strong
a burly policeman
trumpet /ˈtrʌm.pɪt/ verb
[ T ] mainly disapproving to announce or state something proudly to a lot of people
The museum has been loudly trumpeting its reputation as one of the finest in the world.
Their much- trumpeted price cuts affect only 5% of the goods that they sell.
assail /əˈseɪl/ verb formal
[ T ] to attack someone violently or criticize someone strongly
The victim had been assailed with repeated blows to the head and body.
He was assailed with insults and abuse as he left the court.
proliferate /prəˈlɪf. ə r.eɪt/ verb [ I ] formal
to increase a lot and suddenly in number
Small businesses have proliferated in the last ten years.
proliferation /prəˌlɪf. ə rˈeɪ.ʃ ə n/ noun [ U ]
The past two years have seen the proliferation of TV channels.
junk food noun [ C or U ]
food that is unhealthy but is quick and easy to eat
effete /ɪˈfiːt/ adj
literary disapproving weak and without much power
With nothing to do all day the aristocracy had grown effete and lazy.
opt /ɒpt/ verb [ I ]
to make a choice, especially for one thing or possibility in preference to any others
Mike opted for early retirement.
[ + to infinitive ] Most people opt to have the operation.
snob /snɒb/ noun [ C ] mainly disapproving
a person who respects and likes only people who are of a high social class, and/or a person who has extremely high standards who is not satisfied by the things that ordinary people like
He's a frightful snob - if you haven't been to the right school he probably won't even speak to you.
I'm afraid I'm a bit of a wine snob/a snob where wine is concerned.
get personal
informal to start being rude to someone about their character or appearance
As long as the criticism is honestly given and doesn't get personal, I can handle it.
single sb/sth out phrasal verb
to choose one person or thing from a group for special attention, especially criticism or praise
It's not fair the way my sister is always singled out for special treatment.
Jamie was thrilled when the teacher singled out his poem and asked him to read it out.
divorce /dɪˈvɔːs/ noun
[ C ] formal a separation
Why is there such a divorce between the arts and the sciences in this country's schools?
ethical /ˈeθ.ɪ.k ə l/ adj
relating to beliefs about what is morally right and wrong
ethical and legal issues
the ethical dilemmas surrounding genetic research
sting /stɪŋ/ verb stung , stung
[ I or T ] If someone's unkind remarks sting you, they make you feel upset and annoyed
He was stung by her criticisms.
She knew he was right, but his words still stung.
She managed to give a stinging reply (= an angry answer intended to upset), before slamming down the phone.
turn on sth phrasal verb
If something turns on something else, it depends on it or is decided by it
The success of the talks turns on whether both sides are willing to make some concessions.
outlandish /ˌaʊtˈlæn.dɪʃ/ adj disapproving
strange and unusual and difficult to accept or like
an outlandish hairstyle/outfit
baffle /ˈbæf.l ̩/ verb [ T ]
to cause someone to be completely unable to understand or explain something
She was completely baffled by his strange behaviour.
moniker , also monicker /ˈmɒn.ɪ.kə r / noun [ C ] humorous
a name or nickname
dismiss /dɪˈsmɪs/ verb
[ T ] to decide that something or someone is not important and not worth considering
I think he'd dismissed me as an idiot within five minutes of meeting me.
Let's not just dismiss the idea before we've even thought about it.
Just dismiss those thoughts from your mind - they're crazy and not worth thinking about.
ridiculous /rɪˈdɪk.jʊ.ləs/ adj
stupid or unreasonable and deserving to be laughed at
Do I look ridiculous in this hat?
Don't be so ridiculous! I can't possibly afford to go on holiday.
It's ridiculous to expect a two-year-old to be able to read!
comply /kəmˈplaɪ/ verb [ I ] formal
to act according to an order, set of rules or request
He's been ordered to have the dog destroyed because it's dangerous, but he refuses to comply.
There are serious penalties for failure to comply with the regulations.
magenta /məˈdʒen.tə/ adj
of a dark reddish purple colour
hibiscus /hɪˈbɪs.kəs/ noun [ C ] 洛神花
some adv
used before a number to mean approximately; about
Some fifty tons of stone are taken from the quarry every day.
The water is some twenty to thirty metres beneath the ground.
prestige /presˈtiː d ʒ/ noun [ U ]
respect and admiration given to someone or something, usually because of a reputation for high quality, success or social influence
The company has gained international prestige.
Many people are attracted by the prestige of working for a top company.
thanks to sb/sth
because of someone or something
It's thanks to Sandy that I heard about the job.
disapproving The baby is awake thanks to your shouting.
be duty bound to do sth
to have to do something because it is your duty
We are duty bound to justify how we spend our funds.
catapult /ˈkæt.ə.pʌlt/ verb [ T usually + adv/prep ]
to throw someone or something with great force
When the two vehicles collided, he was catapulted forwards.
be at odds
to disagree
They're at odds over the funding of the project.
Her version of events was at odds with (= very different from) the police report.
protégé /ˈprɒt.ə.ʒeɪ/ noun [ C ]
a young person who is helped and taught by an older and usually famous person
Shapur's restaurant is full every night as trendy Londoners enjoy the wonders of his young protégé, chef Glyn Fussell.
spark /spɑːk/ verb [ T ]
to cause the start of something, especially an argument or fighting
This proposal will almost certainly spark another countrywide debate about how to organize the school system.
The recent interest rises have sparked new problems for the Government.
The visit of the all-white rugby team sparked off (= caused the start of) mass demonstrations.
controversy /ˈkɒn.trə.vɜː.si/ noun [ C or U ]
a lot of disagreement or argument about something, usually because it affects or is important to many people
There was a big controversy surrounding/over the use of drugs in athletics.
The policy has caused fierce/heated controversy ever since it was introduced.
populist /ˈpɒp.jʊ.lɪst/ adj
representing or connected with the ideas and opinions of ordinary people
a populist manifesto
a populist leader
forage /ˈfɒr.ɪdʒ/ verb [ I ]
to go from place to place searching, especially for food
The children had been living on the streets, foraging for scraps and sleeping rough.
The pigs foraged in the woods for acorns.
elude /ɪˈluːd/ verb [ T ]
formal If something that you want eludes you, you do not succeed in achieving it
The gold medal continues to elude her.
They had minor breakthroughs but real success eluded them.
polemic /pəˈlem.ɪk/ noun [ C ] formal
a piece of writing or a speech in which a person strongly attacks or defends a particular opinion, person, idea or set of beliefs
She has published a fierce anti-war polemic.
crave /kreɪv/ verb [ T ]
to have a strong or uncontrollable want for something
Many young children crave attention.
antithetical adj 对立的；相反的
resonate /ˈrez. ə n.eɪt/ verb [ I ]
to continue to have a powerful effect or value
The significance of those great stories resonates down the centuries.
reminiscent /ˌrem.ɪˈnɪs. ə nt/ adj formal
reminiscent of sb/sth
making you remember a particular person, event or thing
That song is so reminiscent of my adolescence.
nouvelle cuisine /ˌnuː.vel.kwɪˈziːn/ noun [ U ]
a style of cooking in which food is lightly cooked and served in attractive patterns on the plate in small amounts
Raymond Blanc, star of nouvelle cuisine, tells Paul Bailey about the philosophy behind his cooking.
haute cuisine noun [ U ]
cooking of a high standard, typically French cooking
bear testimony/witness formal
to say you know from your own experience that something happened or is true
She bore witness to his patience and diligence.
be a credit to sb/sth
to do something that makes a person, group or organization feel proud or receive praise
She is a credit to her family.
go about sth phrasal verb
to begin to do something or deal with something
What's the best way of going about this?
[ + -ing verb ] How can we go about solving this problem?
原文:
这是一场发生在十年前，西班牙顶级厨师之间的撕逼战！我们究竟是要回归食物的本味，还是诉诸分子料理不断挑战人们对食物的认识，直到现在仍旧是个问题！
[1] MADRID — With inventions like parmesan snow, chilled sauces that “boil” with dry ice and green olives made of “spherified” juice, Spain’s avant-garde chefs have created an international buzz for a national cuisine that was long considered an also-ran. Gazpacho and paella were just no match for the specialties of French and Italian cuisine.
[2] But dozens of restaurants around the country now rate a star from the revered Michelin guide. (Six currently hold its top honor: three stars.) Spanish chefs grace the pages of international gastronomic magazines, and some food critics believe they have replaced their French counterparts at the vanguard of culinary innovation.
[3] Such acclaim is just one more cause for celebration in a country that has experienced a decade-long economic boom and gained a reputation as a center of fine wine and cutting-edge architecture as well as food. But after several years in the spotlight, Spain’s uncommonly collegial top chefs have done the unthinkable, or perhaps the inevitable. They have turned on each other.
[4] Santi Santamaría, one of the country’s most prominent chefs, has directed bruising public attacks at his avant-garde counterparts, accusing them of producing pretentious food they would not eat themselves — and potentially poisoning diners with chemicals that he says have no place in the kitchen.
[5] “Some chefs are offering a media spectacle rather than concerning themselves with healthy eating,” Mr. Santamaría said as he accepted a recent prize for his new book, “La Cocina al Desnudo” (“The Kitchen Laid Bare”). In it, the burly, outspoken chef, who trumpets his own dedication to natural ingredients, assails the proliferation of junk food culture — and once again takes on the effete creations of the Spanish avant-garde kitchen.
[6] “We have to decide, as chefs, if we want to continue to use the fresh products of our Mediterranean diet or opt for using additives,” he told journalists in Madrid on Monday, when he repeated a call for the Spanish authorities to investigate restaurants’ use of, for example, liquid nitrogen, for instant freezing, and methyl cellulose, a gelling agent.
[7] This is not Mr. Santamaría’s first attack on high-tech cuisine. Last year, he shocked Spanish chefs at Madrid Fusión, an annual conference, when he accused them of cooking for snobs.
[8] But this time Mr. Santamaría got personal. He singled out Ferran Adrià, godfather of the Spanish (and global) avant-garde movement and the country’s most celebrated chef, for criticism. Despite his “enormous respect” for Mr. Adrià, he said he felt “a huge divorce, both ethical and conceptual with Ferran, who I feel is headed in a direction that is contrary to my principles.”
[9] Mr. Santamaría’s comments stung chefs whose success turns on the wit and wonder evoked by outlandish dishes and opened the door to debate about technology versus tradition in a culinary scene that has acquired baffling monikers like “deconstructivist” and “techno-emotional.”
[10] Mr. Adrià and other chefs dismissed Mr. Santamaría’s latest round of criticism as ridiculous, arguing that many of the products they use are natural and those that are not, are harmless. A spokesman for the Spanish Food Safety Agency said all additives used in Spanish restaurants complied with European Union standards.
[11] Methyl cellulose, used by Mr. Adrià to create, among other things, magenta films of “hibiscus paper” is not dangerous, he said. He also noted that liquid nitrogen was not ingested.
[12] In a recent statement, the Spanish Euro-Toques Association, which represents some 800 Spanish chefs, said Mr. Santamaría’s comments “damaged the prestige Spain has earned at a world level thanks, in part, to its cuisine and chefs.”
[13] “This has been a terrible couple of weeks for us chefs,” Mr. Adrià said by telephone on Saturday from France. His restaurant, el Bulli, in northeastern Spain has three Michelin stars. “Everything that Santi has said about our ingredients is untrue, but it is damaging.”
[14] In a recent telephone interview, Mr. Santamaría said that he felt dutybound to raise public awareness of techniques and ingredients that had catapulted Spanish cuisine to fame but were at odds, in his view, with Spanish traditions and a dedication to local and organic produce.
[15] “How can we, the defenders of natural, local products, include unnatural products in our cooking?” said Mr. Santamaría, who was speaking from Sant Celoni in northeastern Spain, home to his three-star restaurant, Can Fabes.
[16] Andoni Aduriz, a protégé of Mr. Adrià, said Mr. Santamaría was simply trying to scare people.
[17] “Santi is the Hugo Chávez of gastronomy,” Mr. Aduriz said. “He loves to spark controversy with his populist talk.” Mr. Aduriz, who forages in the local countryside for nettles and unusual herbs, said he saw no conflict between a respect for natural produce and high-tech kitchen methods.
[18] “It’s a false debate,” he said. “Santi is seeking the recognition that has eluded him professionally by creating a polemic,” he added, suggesting that despite Mr. Santamaría’s successes, he might crave Mr. Adrià’s fame. Slow Food Spain, part of a global movement that advocates organic produce, said in a statement last week that “innovation and tradition are not antithetical.”
[19] Still, Mr. Santamaría’s claims resonate for some. In a letter to the Spanish newspaper El País, one reader, Jorge Gutiérrez Berlinches, said Mr. Santamaría represented “all of us who like pasta with tomato, a nice plate of potatoes, a fried egg and blood sausage.”
[20] “We need to return to simple things, what’s natural and what tastes good and what is affordable,” he wrote.
[21] Dan Barber, chef of Blue Hill in New York, said that the dispute was reminiscent of the storm over nouvelle cuisine in France in the 1970s and a more recent, nationalist debate over the use of non-French ingredients in haute cuisine. Mr. Barber, an advocate of organic, local ingredients who is an admirer of Mr. Adrià, said the controversy bore testimony to how mature the Spanish culinary movement had become.
[22] “The fact that this debate is taking place is a sign of how far Spain has come — and that is a credit to both Santi and Ferran,” Mr. Barber said. “Any kind of discussion about what goes into our food is a good thing. Whether this was the best way to go about it, is another question.”